Enjoy coastal walks, sumptuous spas, an ancient castle, quirky cafés and boutiques, and local wine with our 48 Hours in Hastings itinerary.
The Borough of Hastings in East Sussex includes Hastings, Hastings Old Town and St Leonards on Sea. The town predates the Norman Conquest, but this is 1066 Country and there are plenty of reminders. Although the Battle of Hastings in 1066 actually took place at nearby Battle, William landed on the coast between Hastings and Eastbourne at Pevensey, and later built Hastings Castle on West Hill above the town.
Hastings went on to become a Medieval Cinque Port and by the 19th century (and with the arrival of the railway), it was a fashionable seaside resort. St Leonards on Sea to the west of Hastings was developed in the 18th century as a seaside town. Both towns are rich in interesting architecture and history, have miles of beach, and a unique and modern vibe, making them great for a cultural city break.
Friday afternoon arrival
If you can, arrive early and visit Hastings Contemporary on The Stade. It’s a museum of contemporary British art and they have a couple of fascinating exhibitions this year that include a Quentin Blake exhibition and an Elias Sime exhibition. Last entry is at 4.30 pm and they close at 5 pm. Then for dinner, why not try The Stagg Inn in All Saints Street in the Old Town. This is the oldest residential street in the town and the pub dates back to the 16th century. They’ve got a fabulous garden and host live bands at the weekend.
Saturday morning
Start your Saturday exploring the fishing quarter at Rock-a-Nore and the Old Town. Rock-a-Nore stretches from the Old Town eastwards with cliffs to one side and the beach (named The Stade) to the other. You’ll see the distinctive black fishermen’s huts, the East Hill funicular, the Fishermen’s Museum and an aquarium. Get here early to see the day’s catch being landed and buy fresh seafood from one of the many fisheries. And lookout for the sculpture of a winkle on Winkle Island. It’s by local sculptor, Leigh Dyer, and is one of a number you’ll spot around the town.
Then head into the Old Town. It centres around the High Street and George Street but includes a labyrinth of narrow lanes, twittens, passageways and hidden squares. The Old Town has squashed itself between East and West Hills and is a fabulous mix of architectural styles, with Medieval, Tudor and Victorian buildings scrambling upwards towards the cliffs above. This was the territory of smugglers who would stash their wares in the caves on the hill.
Nowadays, the Old Town has a wonderfully bohemian atmosphere with lots of independent shops and cafés. Be sure to look out for the next Leigh Dyer sculpture of an octopus playing chess in Butler’s Gap as an eel watches on! And for something really different, try AG Hendy and Co in the Old Town High Street for lunch. Run by a food journalist and photographer, this seafood restaurant only has a few tables, but everything served is fresh off the boats. This is not just lunch. This is a seafood experience, and they also do a number of interesting workshops if you have the time and prebook.
Saturday afternoon
Take the Victorian cliff railway (complete with original carriages) up through a tunnel to the top of West Hill. The views are spectacular as you look down at the sea and town below, and across to East Hill.
Apart from admiring the views, this is also where you’ll also find the remains of Hastings Castle and St Clement’s Caves (AKA Smugglers Cave). The caves are interactive, and the castle has yet more stunning views and played a significant role in the early days of the new Norman era following the Norman conquest. There are various ticket combinations you can get for entry to both. When you’ve finished, walk down via the narrow streets and steps back to the Old Town.
Saturday evening
If you’ve not had enough of seafood yet, try dinner at the renowned Webbe’s fish restaurant. Then walk along the seafront towards the pier looking out for the next Leigh Dyer sculpture on the beach. It’s called The Landing and represents the prow of a Norman longboat. Opposite the pier is the White Rock Theatre. Both the theatre and the pier have a programme of events, shows or live music for your evening’s entertainment.
Sunday morning
Sunday morning is all about exploring St Leonards on Sea. From the pier, walk along the seafront to Marine Court. You’ll know it because this Art Deco building looks like a huge ocean liner has drifted up on to the road. There are all sorts of cool cafés along the promenade for a morning coffee which include Starsky and Hatch, and the colourful and musical Goat Ledge. Look out for Bottle Alley on the seafront and Warrior Square to your right, with its grand Victorian buildings. From here, you want to head inland and explore.
Much of St Leonards is focused around Norman Road and Kings Road. This is home to an eclectic collection of art galleries, vintage clothing shops, record stores and cafés. Pop into Heist which is an indoor street food market for a coffee or a light bite, but do make sure you leave time to explore the wider area.
St Leonards Gardens in between Maze Hill and Quarry Hill is a little area of tranquillity, and this area has some fabulous architecture which includes Baston Lodge, North Lodge (once home of Sir Henry Rider Haggard – author of ‘King Solomon’s Mines’), the Gothic Clock Tower house and rows of brightly coloured buildings. If you have time, walk along the seafront a little further west to see the latest Leigh Dyer sculpture: Marina. Then grab lunch back in the Kings Road before heading out of town for the afternoon.
Sunday afternoon
Before you leave Hastings, there’s just time for a little “green exploring” and for this, you have options. Alexandra Park is about a mile inland from Hastings town centre. It covers 109 acres and includes formal gardens, wooded areas, lakes, a bandstand and a miniature railway. Along the eastern side is a magnificent row of Victorian houses.
For those with a more adventurous spirit, climb up East Hill (or take the East Hill funicular because it is quite a climb). East Hill is a large area that leads into Hastings Country Park. Here there are waterfalls, hidden coves and glens, and amazing coastal views. The park covers 853 acres and there is a Visitor Centre on the eastern side.
Places to stay
- The Laindons Guest House in Hastings Old Town is a boutique B&B in a Georgian property right in the heart of the Old Town.
- The Royal Victoria Hotel is a grand Victorian hotel right on the seafront of St Leonards.
- The Bath House is a converted Turkish bath house and Airbnb in Quarry Hill in St Leonards.
Travel to Hastings
Hastings is 53 miles (85 km) south east of London. There are mainline train services to Hastings and St Leonards from London and journey times are approximately 1 hour 50 minutes.
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