Turn off the A27 just outside Polegate and into the little village of Berwick and at the end of the lane, you’ll come to Berwick Church. You park before an impressive stone wall and a rather romantic passageway leads you to an arch and the approach to the church. There is an area in the grounds thought to be a Bronze Age burial ground and a general feeling of tranquility – as you might expect.
The church is pretty enough with views to the South Downs, examples of Sussex marble, and a Saxon font. Other parts of the church are newer with the tower being 17th century and the aisle 19th century.
The Bloomsbury Set murals
All of the above are good reasons to visit Berwick Church but the jewel in the crown and perhaps most compelling reason to visit are the incredible works of art and murals painted inside by the Bloomsbury Set during WWII. Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell, and Vanessa’s son Quentin Bell were commissioned to paint the church by Bishop Bell of Chichester as an expression of hope. Inspired by other church paintings in Sussex, Bishop Bell was also interested in the revival of painting Medieval churches with murals or wall paintings. The paintings are truly remarkable and create a jaw-dropping moment as they are not only large and prolific but remain very vibrant (thanks in part to a major restoration project).
Grant painted Christ in Glory and a crucifixion scene called the Victory of Calvary.
Quentin Bell painted The Supper at Emmaus and The Wise and Foolish Virgins, while Vanessa painted The Annunciation and the Nativity. The pulpit is also painted and there is a sequence of “Four Seasons” murals and depictions of three local men each representing one of the three military services.
The work doesn’t stop there. There is also a striking reredos painting by Vanessa’s grandson Julian Bell installed in 2020. The central part of this is a cross created by artist David Hensel in 2016.
Visitors to the church can also listen to a number of short musical recordings (which change throughout the year). This is music that has been “recorded in the church, inspired by the church and spoken word” and it’s a remarkably evocative and moving experience listening to the notes float past these magnificent but poignant paintings.
The Cuckmere Pilgrim Path.
Look out for the Pilgrim Dial by Thomas Sargeant in the churchyard. It is one of seven dials, one for each churchyard along the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path. This is a circular walk of about 18 km that takes you to the ancient churches of Selmeston, Arlington, Lullington, Alciston Alfriston, Wilmington, and of course, Berwick. The symbol on the dial is a scallop shell – the traditional symbol of pilgrimage. There is a leaflet about the walk with a map at Berwick Church. You can also find details online at: Cuckmere Pilgrim Path.
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