Dotted across Sussex are hundreds of tiny villages and hamlets that are bursting with history, character and unexpected discoveries. Halnaker (and, by extension, its close neighbour Boxgrove) is one of them.
If you’re driving between Petworth and Chichester, you could easily blink and miss it. Yet take the time to pull over, stretch your legs and explore, and you’ll be richly rewarded. Within a remarkably small area you’ll find one of Sussex’s most photographed tree tunnels, an evocative windmill, medieval ruins, a vineyard and glorious South Downs walks.
Top tip: Parking in Halnaker is extremely limited, particularly in autumn when visitors flock to photograph the famous tree tunnel as the leaves turn gold. If you’re travelling south from Petworth, there is a small lay-by on the right as you enter the village, but it fills up quickly. Arrive early in the morning if you can, or visit outside the busiest weeks of the autumn season. Alternatively, park in nearby Boxgrove and enjoy the walk back into the village.
Halnaker Windmill
The first and most iconic attractions are Halnaker Hill and Windmill. From the lay-by at the entrance to the village, it is a steady uphill walk of about 1.2 km through Halnaker’s famous tree tunnel. Depending on the season, the avenue is either a cool green canopy or a blaze of autumn colour, before the path opens dramatically onto the chalk grassland of the South Downs. Perched on the crest of the hill, the windmill commands magnificent and panoramic views. On a clear day, you can see south towards the sea, across the Goodwood Estate and over the rolling countryside in almost every direction.
There has been a windmill here since about 1540 built for the Duke of Richmond and the current mill is thought to date from between the 1740s and 1780s. The top of Halnaker Hill is also a Scheduled Ancient Monument as it’s the location of a Neolithic earthwork structure as well as being home to a WWII radio direction-finding structure.
In 1923, the great Sussex writer and poet, Hilaire Belloc, penned the melancholy Ha’nacker Mill, inspired by the windmill which had been struck by lightening in 1905 and was derelict:
“Sally is gone from Ha’nacker Hill.
And the Briar grows ever since then so blindly
And ever since then the clapper is still,
And the sweeps have fallen from Ha’nacker Mill.”
Linger a while before you retrace your steps to the lay-by.
Boxgrove Priory
On the opposite side of the road to the lay-by, a footpath winds gently around the edge of Tinwood Estate Vineyard before leading you towards the village of Boxgrove.
The centrepiece of the village is Boxgrove Priory, a Benedictine priory founded in about 1107, originally for just three monks. The ruins of the two-storey priory guest house are impressive (and free to visit). The nearby priory church dates back to about 1170. Take time to admire De la Warr chantry (1530), the beautifully painted ceiling and the stained glass windows. When you are ready, follow a slightly different route back to the car.
Boxgrove’s history actually stretches back far beyond the medieval period. It was here that the remains of Boxgrove Man were discovered. They are among the oldest known human remains ever found in Britain, revealing that people lived and hunted in this landscape around half a million years ago.
End your exploring at Tinwood Estate Vineyard
After exploring Halnaker and Boxgrove on foot, there’s no better way to round off your visit than with a short drive to Tinwood Estate Vineyard.
Whether you choose a leisurely lunch at the Vineyard Kitchen, a guided wine tasting and tour, or an overnight stay in one of the vineyard’s luxury huts, it’s the perfect way to slow the pace and soak up the tranquillity of this beautiful corner of West Sussex.
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