On the road from Handcross to Turners Hill in West Sussex, you pass an intriguing wood. In autumn, it almost begs for a visit with its mix of golden beech trees and wooded paths, and at any time of the year, it has a certain mystique that draws the eye. But it’s all too easy to whizz past and not stop.
The wood is known as Cowdray Forest and belongs to the Paddockhurst Estate. The Paddockhurst Estate is part of the intricate web of history that binds Sussex together and has all sorts of intriguing backstories. But you may be left wondering why it’s called Cowdray Forest when the Cowdray Estate is over in Midhurst.
A brief history of Paddockhurst
The first recorded reference to a property called Paddockhurst seems to be in 1691 (as part of the Wakehurst estate at Ardingly) when Sir William Culpeper sold Paddockhurst as a separate property. That building is now the one we know as Worth Abbey School. It was rebuilt between 1869 and 1872 for its new owner and later passed through several hands, including, in 1881, Robert Whitehead, pioneer of the modern torpedo. Whitehead’s descendants included a granddaughter who married Herbert von Bismarck, eldest son of Chancellor Otto von Bismarck, and another who became the first wife of Georg von Trapp, yes that one, the mother of the children later made famous by The Sound of Music.
The Cowdray connection
In 1894, Weetman Dickinson Pearson, later Viscount Cowdray, purchased the Paddockhurst Estate. In due course, his son owned both Parham Park (West Sussex) and Paddockhurst, but Paddockhurst was sold in the 1930s along with 500 acres of land. The family retained ownership of Cowdray Park in Midhurst. The ah ha moment.
In 1933, Abbot John Chapman arrived from Downside Abbey in Somerset to found a new monastic community at what is now the school down the road. During WWII, the school was evacuated back to Somerset, and Canadian troops took over the house, but by 1957, Worth had become an independent abbey under Dom Victor Farwell and in 1959, the Senior School was founded.
Walking in Cowdray Forest
Cowdray Forest is private land owned by the Paddockhurst Estate but at the moment, the owners have given permission for walkers to use it. That explains why, if you look on a map, there don’t appear to be many public footpaths, but the reality is there are dozens of little paths across the forest. The forest itself includes pine, beech and oak, and an ancient yew (if you can find it) said to be at least 1,000 years old.
If you park in the car park on the B2110 (just before the junction with the B2036), you have access straight into the woods. There’s a map at the entrance and should you wish to, you can walk all the way through to Tilgate Forest. If you’ve ever driven up the M23 north of Pease Pottage and wondered what that vast expanse of forest is to your right, well, now you’re in it!
We did a gentle 5 km circular walk and it was magical. We met very few people, and the woodland paths were enchanting. The only downside is that as you walk north, you gradually pick up the gentle roar of the M23.
And beware … do not try and cut back through Green Trees (a substantial property and wedding venue).
The footpath does lead you through the centre of Green Trees and down their drive to the road (spot the wonderful herds of deer), but the walk back to the car park from there along the road is both alarming and dangerous. Instead, cut through the woods.
Back for lunch
A short walk from the car park (and yes, you can cut through the woods) is The Cowdray Arms. It’s owned by Hall and Woodhouse and is described as “high-quality steak house”. It’s got an intriguing pub sign!
If you’ve enjoyed this post about Paddockhurst and Cowdray Forest, you may also like:
