Whizz along the coast road from Eastbourne towards Seaford and you could easily sail past East Dean without ever realising what you’ve missed.
Hidden just south of the A259, this postcard-pretty village is in one of the most compelling corners of the South Downs. Just a short distance from the iconic Birling Gap and the Seven Sisters, it has all the wow factor of this dramatic part of the Downs but still manages to feel off the beaten track, unspoilt and secluded.
East Dean is a perfect place to stay if you’re walking the South Downs Way from Seaford to Eastbourne along the famous cliffs and it’s also a quiet base for exploring the surrounding area: from smugglers’ trails, forest hikes and moonlit walks, to discovering historic villages and local vineyards. Better still, East Dean is home to The Tiger Inn, known for its warm welcome, comfortable beds, great food and intriguing sense of history, as well as Beachy Head Holiday Cottages and their beautiful new B&B accommodation.
This is where comfort meets style and you can look forward to a hot shower, a hearty meal and a wonderful night’s sleep at the end of a day of incredible walks and exploring.
Before you arrived
People have lived around East Dean for thousands of years, with prehistoric settlements looking out from the clifftops near the Belle Tout lighthouse and Birling Gap. By Saxon times, East Dean had begun to take the shape of a village, with Aelle and his sons settling here and later kings, including Alfred the Great, holding land in this sheltered valley. The flint church of St Simon and St Jude still preserves its Saxon tower, along, of course, with Norman additions and an unusual tapsel gate (unique to Sussex).
Normans, markets and medieval drama
After the Norman Conquest, East Dean grew in status, and there is even a story that suggests William the Conqueror had a sister who lived here. In 1257, the Bardolf family took over nearby Birling Manor and established a weekly market and annual fair, but the 14th century saw French raids along the coast and villagers sheltering inside the church. Whilst later, Bardolf rebellions led to their lands being seized by the Crown, then restored, and seized again in turn.
Smugglers and shipwrecks
By the 18th and 19th centuries, life along this stretch of coastline was a hotbed of smuggling and life after dark. Birling Gap was a notorious landing place for smugglers, and smuggling routes would have passed through or close to East Dean on their way inland to Jevington and Alfriston. The stories are deliciously atmospheric: secret paths and tunnels, hidden caves and lantern signals. And some of the local houses still have old beams salvaged from ships broken on the shore.
One villager, James Dippery, has become known as East Dean’s most famous smuggler, earning a fortune before escaping prosecution by “turning King’s Evidence” and retiring comfortably back home. There is a large property in the village named Dipperay’s after him, but no one knows if the story is true.
Elementary, dear Watson
And then there is East Dean’s most unexpected resident: Sherlock Holmes. In Arthur Conan Doyle’s later stories, Holmes retires to a small farm on the South Downs, spending his final years in quiet contentment as a beekeeper. Though Conan Doyle never named the exact location, the clues point to East Dean so look out for the blue plaque that marks the very building long believed to have inspired that fictional retreat.
East Dean today
Modern East Dean is exactly what you hope for when dreaming of a Sussex village: a large, central green lined with flint cottages and a regular village market. And overlooking the green, with exactly the right amount of historic charm, is The Tiger Inn.
The Tiger Inn: A walkers’ favourite and a perfect retreat
Come winter, the Tiger Inn glows from within, creating a heartwarming atmosphere that draws you in from the cold. Inside, you’ll find everything you hope for in a Downland pub: a wide, open fire crackling through winter afternoons, stone floors, and the gentle hum of walkers, locals and dogs shaking off the weather.
Low ceilings, nooks and shadows add to the cosiness, the sort of place made for lingering. The menu is resolutely Sussex, with fresh local produce, hearty favourites and generous plates perfect after a blustery walk.
A good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast
If you’re staying over, The Tiger becomes even more irresistible. Above the 15th-century inn, four double rooms and a twin are stylish, comfortable and very inviting. And the pub’s upstairs wonky corridors are a treasure trail in themselves. Old smuggling posters promising rewards for information, displays of shark teeth and curious relics that nod to East Dean’s long, sea-soaked past.
Across the village green former farm workers’ cottages and workshops have been beautifully converted into seven B&B rooms and named the Cub Rooms as recognition of their connection to The Tiger. Whilst for a taste of the smuggler’s life or a longer stay, Beachy Head Holiday Cottages are housed in the old stables and milking parlour within the Dipperay’s house walled garden.
Steeped in elegant, local charm the accommodation is all beautifully decorated, snug in winter, bright in summer, and just a mile’s walk across the fields from Birling Gap and the sweep of the Seven Sisters. Start your day exploring with a hearty breakfast and end each day by sinking into a wonderfully comfortable bed. This is great, walking with just the right touch of luxury and comfort added in.
Walking from East Dean
East Dean is the ideal base for exploring the South Downs National Park with incredible walks straight from the door of the Tiger Inn.
- To the south lie the iconic Seven Sisters, Birling Gap and Cuckmere Haven.
- To the west is the deep green of Friston Forest, perfect for peaceful woodland walking.
- To the north, the Longman of Wilmington serves up helpings of folklore and legend, along with the perfect viewpoint for watching the sun rise over Sussex.
Circular routes link the cliffs and the woods, giving you a glimpse of the area’s extraordinary variety in just a few miles.
It’s this blend of dramatic chalk cliffs, quiet forest and meandering rivers, combined with history and intrigue, that makes East Dean such a special destination. Whether you come for the Seven Sisters walk, a weekend in the South Downs exploring the cliffs and history or just to snuggle up in front of the fire at The Tiger Inn, East Dean leaves a lingering impression.
To book a room or a table, please contact: The Tiger Inn
For details of local walks:
