Hastings Old Town is quirky, bohemian and a joy to explore. It is squashed between two hills, East Hill and West Hill and is a jumble of narrow streets and twittens that gradually climb up to the cliffs above. There is a fabulous mix of fishermen’s huts and net shops, half timbered Tudor houses and Georgian facades. This is a town that’s proud of its history from smugglers and pirates to green men and fishermen.
Set aside at least a day to explore the town and a couple more days to explore the surrounding area.
The Stade and Rock-a-Nore
The Stade is the shingle beach to the south of the town. It’s also part of the town’s fishing quarter and home to Europe’s largest fleet of beach-launched fishing boats. If you get up early enough you might see them landing the catch, but if you don’t want to do that you can just explore the boats and buy fresh from the fish shops in Rock-a-Nore. Rock-a-Nore is an area between the beach and the cliffs and it stretches along Rock-a-Nore Road. You will definitely want to spend some time exploring here because for a small area there is a lot packed in.
The Shipwreck Museum and the Fishermen’s Museum
These two museums at the east end of Rock-a-Nore are well worth a visit and entrance to both is free (although you are invited to make a donation). They are both full of local stories, artefacts and information about the town’s fishing and maritime past. Inside the Fishermen’s Museum, you can climb aboard the last Hastings’ lugger, the Enterprise built in 1912. In the Shipwreck Museum, you’ll find all sorts of information and artefacts from the many shipwrecks in the area as well as local fossils. From here, you can also book to go on one of the shipwreck visits, like a visit to the Amsterdam at Bulverhythe.
Hastings Aquarium
There is a small aquarium next to the museums. They have quite a lot to see including a Ray Tank, pufferfish, sharks and a jungle room.
East Hill funicular
The East Hill funicular station is on Rock-a-Nore road. It first opened in 1902 and takes you up the cliff to the top of East Hill and on to Hastings Country Park. There are fabulous views and great walking at the top, and if you want to travel a different way down there is a long flight of steps you can take. When the funicular is closed … the steps are the only way to the top!
Fishermen’s huts, fisheries and Winkle Island
Rock-a-Nore is also where you’ll find the distinctive black fishermen’s huts, old anchors and lots of fisheries for your fish and chips, jellied eels or roll mops. As you walk back towards the Old Town proper, also look out for Winkle Island with its distinctive winkle sculpture. This is the meeting place of the Winkle Club charity, formed in 1900 by Hastings fishermen to help the under-privileged families of Hastings Old Town.
Hastings Old Town centre
The town is centred around George Street and the High Street. It’s here you will find a fabulous selection of quirky shops, vintage emporiums, delicatessens and boutiques, along with a pub or two and plenty of cafés and places to eat. Ye Old Pump House proudly announces that if you drink rum during the day, you’re a pirate not an alcoholic and look out for the sculpture of an octopus playing chess at Butler’s Gap. This area also has some great street art in various different corners so keep your eyes peeled for that. There is even a Flower Maker’s Museum and a firm of solicitors who have the coolest window displays I have ever seen for a law firm.
West Hill funicular
At the west end of George Street, you’ll find the town’s second funicular. This takes you up to West Hill where you’ll find Hastings Castle, the Smugglers’ Caves and more great views! This one first opened in 1891 and still has the original wooden Victorian coaches. It runs through a tunnel and once again, if you want to come down from West Hill a different way, there are a series of narrow twittens from near the entrance to the Smugglers’ Cave that will bring you back down to the town centre.
Exploring the twittens and back streets
Talking of twittens (a small, narrow street), it is well worth spending time exploring in and around all the back streets as they tumble down the hill. Smugglers would have used these and you’ll see old churches, tiny courtyards, old buildings and maybe even the front door of Detective Chief Superintendent Christopher Foyle in the TV crime drama Foyle’s War. Don’t stop looking until you have also found the Cheese House, said to be the only three cornered cottage in England. You used to be able to stay there but it’s closed at the moment.
Miniature golf, railway and amusement park
If you’re looking for yet more things to do, head over the road towards the seafront. You could just hang out on the beach. Alternatively, try Hastings Miniature Railway, a 10.25″ (260 mm) gauge miniature railway or one of the three 18-hole mini golf courses. And there is an amusement park there too if you’re looking for more entertainment.
Hastings Contemporary
If you’re wondering what the big black building is at the edge of The Stade, it’s the Hastings Contemporary – a world-class modern and contemporary art gallery with an ongoing programme of exhibitions and activities.
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