There is a sleepy lane that runs from Upper Beeding to Poynings. Along it are a dozen little pockets of interest, which include Tottington Manor, Edburton and Fulking. Fulking sits right at the bottom of the northern slopes of the South Downs, close to Devil’s Dyke.
Historically, Fulking belonged to the parish of Edburton, which explains why it doesn’t have a parish church; its church is at neighbouring Edburton. As you drive through, you will undoubtedly be struck by the pretty array of cottages, and Fulking is home to no fewer than 22 listed buildings.
A haunted pub
Right on the bend, The Dog and Shepherd Pub is hard to miss and is said to be haunted (one of many ghost stories of Fulking). It’s been a public house since the early 1800s and was apparently named after the annual sheep washing that took place in the stream outside. The pub was also once used to store smugglers’ contraband, and by WWII, Canadian soldiers billeted in Fulking and Poynings and British soldiers stationed at Devil’s Dyke and Edburton made good use of its facilities. Today, it is very conveniently positioned right at the foot of the Downs for those needing something a bite to eat after a good hike.
A curious water system
In the 19th century, villagers in Fulking had difficulty obtaining an adequate supply of drinking water despite having springs coming off the Downs. So in about 1886, an ingenious system was created using the spring near the pub. Water powered a hydraulic ram, which required no external source of power, and was pumped into a reservoir. Gravity then carried the water through the village to further reservoirs and hand pumps. Much of the system survives, and on our visit, someone was still using it.
John Ruskin and the Brighton brewer and collector Henry Willett have traditionally been credited with devising and instigating the scheme, although contemporary accounts suggest the rector of Edburton, Rev. F. Gell, also deserves significant credit. Look out for the little Gothic pump/ram house near the pub and the Ruskin drinking fountain.
Apparently, the system remained in use until mains water arrived in the early 1950s. And while talking of water, also of note is the fact that Fulking Stream is a chalk stream, which are relatively rare.
Up onto the Downs and nearby
- Edburton Castle Ring was a motte-and-bailey castle on Edburton Hill believed to date from soon after October 1066. There is not much to see now beyond a mound, but it’s fun trying to find it.
- The lost village of Perching. At the top of Perching Hill on the South Downs, not far from Fulking, once stood a village. It was part of one of four local manors, but all that remains now are some farm buildings. It’s not known exactly when it was abandoned, but this was probably due to the harsh conditions of living there.
- If you know where to look, you’ll also find Neolithic barrows on Fulking Hill; while at the base of the Perching borstal, there are apparently also the remains of a chalk pit and Victorian lime kiln.
- Devil’s Dyke is a well known 100-metre long valley with stunning views, a heap of folklore and legend, and some fantastic walks. It’s a short but steep walk away.
Fulking is by no means a big village, but it is worth a little detour. Stop at Edburton church, have a drink in the pub, wash your boots at the pump and hike up the hill.
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