Get under the hood of the gorgeous Sussex town of Lewes with local art, real Sussex flavours and a few fleas.
There are many reasons to visit Lewes. At first blush, it might seem like a town proudly wearing the colours and scars of its medieval past, with cobbled streets, ancient ruins and a Norman castle. And it is. But it’s so much more than that, and you’ll find radicals, martyrs, fallen soldiers, quiet heroes and great artists in almost every twitten and turn (a twitten being a narrow passage or path). Not forgetting the abundance of local food and drink.
Only 1.5 hours from London by train, Lewes is delightfully caught on the banks of the River Ouse in a gap in the long ridge of the South Downs. Arrive on a lazy Friday afternoon and fall out of the train station and straight into The Depot.
Friday night at The Depot
In what was once an old warehouse, The Depot is a cinema, with a restaurant and bar. Run as a charity and with a great outdoor terrace, they host an interesting programme of films, workshops and events. And Friday night is cocktail night in their glamorous Robert’s Bar. As you sip on your favourite sun downer, don’t forget to check out what’s on over the weekend.
For something a bit different
Save your soul. For a gentle and evocative start to the day, head to the ruins of Lewes Priory, a short walk from the station. Founded by De Warenne (who fought alongside William the Conqueror) and his wife in 1078, this was once one of the largest monastic churches in England. The rather beautiful sculpture of a Medieval helmet commemorates the Battle of Lewes in 1264 which was also fought here. Finally, if you want a little light exercise, cross Convent Field and you can get out onto The Brooks – a flat wetland area and Site of Special Scientific Interest with footpaths to nearby villages and the River Ouse.
Get crafty. If you’d rather stay within town, leave the priory and detour briefly for a visit to Anne of Cleves House in Southover High Street. It dates back to the 15th century and was part of Anne’s divorce settlement. Then walk up to Southover Grange Gardens and The Sussex Guild in the North Wing of the Grange. This is a great place for high quality local crafts and art and afterwards, you can grab a bite to eat at The Hatch, a hole in the wall café known for its lunches and great ice cream.
Take your lunch in to the gardens and eat it next to a 17th century mulberry tree or by the sculpture by Jon Edgar. Then it’s a hop, skip and a jump to Charleston In Lewes, a creative space which celebrates the Bloomsbury Group. It has all sorts of workshops and exhibitions going on throughout the year so plan ahead to book an experience.
Finally, turn tail and stroll up Friar’s Walk. Stop at Symposium Wine Merchant and Wine Bar. Stock up on local wine, or enjoy a quick glass and some cheese and charcuterie. Then walk on looking out for the trompe-l’oeil painted in an old doorway and representing a gateway to a Franciscan Friary and the old Turkish Baths (now the Unity Centre).
Before it’s time to turn in for the night, head up to White Hill to the Elephant and Castle for a truly memorable and Sussex experience of traditional and contemporary folk music. Entry is usually £5 but check first.
For a bit of shopping
There are lots of independent shops in Lewes but nothing quite beats a rummage in a flea market or a great Bric a Brac find. Pastorale Antiques (at the far end of the High Street in Malling Street) was once a coaching inn and is now home to nine local antique dealers with interesting finds from the 16th century. They also have their own courtyard café, Café Du Jardin with a cosy wine cellar. Or try Needlemakers and Star Brewery Gallery for more local talent, art and crafts and the giant flea market in Market Street. You can lose yourself in there for hours.
With the family
If you have family in tow, you really cannot miss a visit to Lewes Castle. Built immediately after the Norman conquest by William de Warenne, you can climb the two mottes (or hilltop keeps), for incredible views of the town and then visit the small museum which has got some interesting prehistoric finds. Or, if the family are really not fans of history, then its Pells Pool all the way. Pells Pool is an outdoor swimming bath or lido built in 1860 and the oldest freshwater outdoor public swimming baths in the UK.
Where to eat, drink and indulge
For great local beer, live music and street food head to Beak Brewery, a local taproom just a 10 minute walk from Cliffe High Street and where they have 15 keg lines devoted to brewery-fresh beer. Alternatively, for something that gets a mention in the Michelin Guide, Dill in South Street offer small plate dining with style.
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