How Pagham Harbour has changed over centuries? Enticing Pagham Harbour in West Sussex covers 629 hectares and is a major biological and geological site as well as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Ramsar site and a local nature reserve. Yet it has had several re-incarnations over hundreds of years. Today the area comprises of mostly salt marsh and shallow lagoons and is unusable by shipping. It is not classed as an estuary because no major water course drains into it.
The Romans invaded Britain landing in Kent in 43AD and, spreading westwards, probably used the then comparatively deep water of the harbour as sheltered moorings for their galleys. After the Romans left, the Saxons took over in the 5th Century. In the 7th Century, the Saxon King Caedwalla of the South Saxons gave land to Wilfred, Bishop of Ripon, then exiled in his kingdom, to build a “cathedral” on the west side of Pagham Harbour (probably at Church Norton).
By the Middle Ages, Pagham Harbour was a working harbour with three ports. The chief port was Sidlesham on the north west side – it was then known as Wardur. At the mouth were two further ports – Charlton and near today’s Pagham village lay Wythering (Wydesinges). Subsequently both of these last named ports were overrun by the sea in the 13th Century. Gradually, silting meant the harbour was restricted to comparatively small vessels and eventually none.
Sidlesham became the prominent port in Pagham harbour and handled 65 -70 coastal vessels per year at it’s peak. It imported coal and grain and the village had a tide mill to turn the grain into flour for shipping out. The last tide mill dated from 1755 and had three water wheels and eight pairs of stones capable of grinding a cart load of corn in one hour. A plaque on the wall of the Old Mill House in the village now marks the spot and there is still a Mill Road in Sidlesham today.
The original Sidlesham Quay is now a conservation area. Eventually the village became untenable as a working port because of silting and trade decreased. In 1873, Parliament approved a bill that led to the harbour being drained to become farmland and an embankment was built at the mouth to hold back the sea. However, this was breached during a violent storm in 1910 which drowned livestock, so farming in the actual harbour area was abandoned. The harbour mouth is now conspicuously narrow measuring around 50 metres across. This causes sea water to rush in at speed during certain tides especially when there is stormy weather in the Channel.
Today, Pagham Harbour consists of salt marsh, tidal mud flats with shingle, open water, reed beds and wet grassland habitat, all of which are conducive to wild life. There are now well marked paths around the harbour. On the east side, accessed by a route west from Pagham church, a bank with a pathway on top protects the reed beds, lagoons, wet grassland and farmland inland from invasive salty, tidal mudflats.
This area attracts seabirds, waders, woodland birds and raptors. In the spring, it is possible to spot herons and egrets sitting on their nests in the trees – being comparatively large birds they are easily visible. On the west side of Pagham Harbour, there is a flat path along the shore of RSPB Pagham and RSPB Church Norton (both with parking) and then north to Sidlesham. Parts of this path are covered at high tides so checking tide tables is advised. The route is well marked with information boards at intervals and also a path up the bank to a chapel and graveyard at Church Norton, which is possibly all that remains of the original Saxon cathedral complex. Near Church Norton and just offshore, there is an specially constructed, artificial island for nesting terns, although the seagulls have also muscled in. Continuing northwards the path reaches Sidlesham village.
Salt marshes, as occur in Pagham Harbour, are, themselves, a valuable part of the ecology of the area especially in reducing flooding and erosion, which are becoming a regular feature of the Sussex coast. The salt marshes affect the strength of wave and tidal forces with the marsh’s vegetation decreasing the power of the waves. Alongside this, there is a positive effect on flood defences by actually helping extend the life of such structures. In turn, these reduce tidal and storm surges leading to lower overall water levels and pressure on any such defences. The mudflats in Pagham Harbour play a part in minimising wave energy by influencing the flow of water. Seagrass meadows and other submerged aquatic vegetation also undertake this whilst, in shallow areas, the seagrass helps trap sediment which further stabilises the sea bed. All these physical aspects of Pagham Harbour enable the diversion and flow of water in the harbour itself. In turn, this reduces the effects of incoming tides racing through the narrow harbour entrance especially at times of strong onshore winds although watching this (from a position of safety) can be exciting.
The ecological benefits of salt marshes improves water quality by storing large amounts of carbon dioxide that helps mitigate against climate change. Biodiversity is boosted by supporting young fish and marine invertebrates and thus insect, plant and bird life – the latter being an important part of Pagham Harbour and one of its major attractions. From an ascetic point of view, salt marshes can, therefore, help improve humans’ enjoyment of the area and, in turn, their wellbeing.
For those who enjoy fresh air, coastal waters, and the countryside, Pagham Harbour is an attraction all year round with easily accessible, mostly flat walks and nearby parking. Binoculars are a must but also suitable foot ware, clothing and, not forgetting, the essential tide tables!
This article was contributed by Helena Millen.
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