You may not think of Sussex as a classic location for some island hopping but after a visit to Chichester Harbour, you may think again. Ok, so you do need to be a little creative in your interpretation of what constitutes an island. And what constitutes a hop, for that matter. But bear with me.
Chichester Harbour
If you don’t know it, Chichester Harbour is a natural harbour. It includes 9,226-acres and covers the area from east of Hayling Island, right the way across to East Head, Birdham and Appledram (also known as Apuldram). There are three main channels (Emsworth Channel, Thorney Channel and Chichester Channel – which also divides into Bosham Lake and Itchenor Reach) and as you look at the map, you can see three peninsulas reaching south through the harbour area towards the sea. The peninsulas are Thorney Island, Chidham and Bosham. And it is these that you are going to hop.
Chichester Harbour is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and a biological and geological Site of Special Scientific Interest. Within it, you’ll find the villages of Birdham, Bosham, Chidham, Dell Quay, Emsworth, Fishbourne, Langstone, Northney, South Hayling, Southbourne, West Itchenor, West Thorney and West Wittering. The whole area is a haven for wildlife and if you have ever visited Chichester Harbour on a warm, sunny day, you’ll know that there is a very special tranquility about it, and it feels off the beaten track.
Island hopping
It’s fair to say that Sussex isn’t entirely ready for the concept of island hopping yet, so, this is more of a walk, cycle or drive (or a combination of all three) than a hop. But it’s still a lot of fun.
If you walk from the Marina at Emsworth to Bosham Hoe it’s roughly 27 km. The part around Thorney Island is on the Sussex Border Path, but it’s not possible to cycle this route. (Note at the time of writing, part of the footpath at Thorney Island was shut). If you don’t walk Thorney Island and instead start at Prinsted, it reduces this section to 16 km.
Thorney Island to Chidham and Bosham
This first section is coastal walking at its best as you look on to Nutbourne Marsh Nature Reserve, mudflats and marshes, and the sea lapping gently on the shores of quiet and forgotten pebble beaches. The footpath takes you all the way around the outside edge of Thorney Island and then all the way around the outside edge of the Chidham peninsula. The path is flat, with the occasional bridge over watery inlets and there are large stretches where you’ll meet no one. It feels wonderfully wild and remote.
The occasional bench is perfect for a thermos flask coffee and have your binoculars at the ready for a variety of different birds! There is really not much human habitation here apart from the very occasional house or hamlet.
There is a little bit of road walking as you leave Chidham, and start to drop down onto the Bosham peninsula and if you’re thinking of splitting this island hop over two days, Bosham is the place to stay. For the cyclists amongst you, or those with tired feet, from Broadbridge just north of Bosham, you can do all the remaining part of the route without having to cycle on any main roads.
Bosham to Itchenor
This is another idyllic stretch of your island hopping but different from the first section. Bosham gently bustles and is both historic and picture postcard pretty. It’s told say that King Canute lived here (and that his daughter is buried in the church) and that it is also the birth and burial place of the last Saxon King, Harold II.
But today, it feels like a sailing village as people come and go with their boats and their wetsuits. There is little background noise other than the sea, the wildlife, the chime of a sail boat’s mast and occasional local laughter. When you’re ready to leave, take the Shore Road south towards the ferry in the direction of Bosham Hoe. You can cut across the harbour at low tide to get to Shore Road but at high tide, you have to walk all the way around the bay.
The Shore Road is just that, and runs along the very edge of the watery channel. This makes it susceptible to the tides so you may have to wait before travelling and when you do, you’ll drive over seaweed, but it is also a gorgeous road, with views back across towards Bosham. It eventually leads slightly inland before coming to a small informal car park on a bend. The ferry is this way and you walk down a leafy tunnel of a path, Smugglers Lane, until it opens out onto the wide flats of Chichester Canal.
Look carefully for the path across the flats to the water’s edge. You can see Itchenor the other side of the channel. There has been a ferry here since the 17th century and you just have to wait a moment or two (in the summer) and the ferry will come and collect you. Don’t expect duty free, it’s just a few minutes sail to the other side and costs just £3 but what a wonderful way to travel. And yes, it can take bikes.
Itchenor to Fishbourne
This section is a 8km.
It feels every bit like island hopping when you reach Itchenor even though you’re not even on one of the three peninsulas anymore. It is very quiet and yet again, you feel you’re somewhere remote. Stop for a coffee at the Quarterdeck café in the boat yard, and then pick up the New Lipchis Way footpath north to Chichester Marina. If you’re cycling, Salterns Way will lead you south to West Wittering if you fancy a detour or all the way back to Chichester. Whichever way you travel, you can cross the water at the marina via the bridge and then carry on up the coastal shore back to Fishbourne.
Getting there
Much of Chichester Harbour hangs beautifully south of the A259, along which there is a bus service from Chichester. To drive, turn off the A27 where it is signed towards Fishbourne.
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