Just north west of Chichester (West Sussex) and within easy reach of Chichester Harbour, the Horse and Groom is a rising star in the Sussex dining scene. What began in the 16th century as a simple dwelling later became a working forge, until, like many forges of its time, it burnt down in the mid-1700s. Rebuilt around 1750, it continued shoeing horses and shaping metal for another 60 years before taking on a new life.
In 1812, the Brewers of Chichester saw an opportunity. With the nearby area developed and thousands of Irish labourers working in the area, this corner of Sussex was buzzing with life, with workers thirsty for a place to gather after a long day. Brewers took over the lease from George Lennox, son of the 2nd Duke of Richmond, and the Horse and Groom became a public house. Since then, it has been a cornerstone of the local community, even serving as a base for the Home Guard during the Second World War.
Fast-forward to 2020, and the Horse and Groom entered a new chapter with a complete refurbishment. Today, it’s more than a pub. It’s independently owned, has a two-rosette restaurant and is one of the Gastropub Awards’ “Ones to Watch,” recognised among the top five in its category.
Food with Sussex flavour
At the heart of the Horse and Groom’s menu is commitment to local, seasonal ingredients. Head Chef, Luke Cockram, who joined the team alongside the current management a few years ago, is passionate about working with small producers from the surrounding area. One standout supplier Calcot Farm, is just 20 miles away. Established in 2019, the farm not only raises its own Ruby Red cattle but they are also particularly passionate about minimising the distance from farm to abattoir, ensuring minimal stress for the animals and maximum flavour in the meat. The result is exceptional, 40-day aged beef (from tender fillet to rich ribeye and sirloin) that is prepared in the Horse and Groom’s kitchen.
A Sussex pantry
The commitment to local sourcing doesn’t stop at meat. “My greengrocers are Munneries, just up the road,” Luke explains. “They try to source as much as possible from Sussex growers, so pretty much all our fruit and veg comes through them.” Fish is sourced from Brighton, Newhaven and across the south coast whenever possible, keeping the menu closely tied to the region’s seasons and shores. There is a good selection of Sussex wine too.
The approach is simple but uncompromising: find the best Sussex has to offer, treat it with care and let the quality of the ingredients shine. “It might sound simple,” Luke says, “but everything that comes into the kitchen gets the same level of attention. Nothing leaves the pass unless it’s at its best.”
So what is on the menu?
For starters, I went for a BBQ Korean style octopus with mango and Chimichurri. Not always easy to get right, this octopus was perfectly done! And don’t worry if you’re not a meat eater, there were three vegetarian options, one of which included a Sussex Mayfield Vintage twice baked souffle and a heritage tomato and burrata dish.
Despite the strong call to arms to try the steak (and those I was with, did, and were not disappointed), for mains I opted for the special which was dressed local crab. That said, one of their house specialities is pie – and it did look good, and I was similarly tempted by the vegetarian chargrilled broccoli steak with confit lemon hummus and golden raisin Chimichurri.
For pud, my heart was torn between the chocolate and hazelnut “delice”, the Sussex affogato and the local ice cream. My delice was superb.
A toast
The Horse and Groom’s drinks list is just as thoughtfully curated. Alongside English sparkling wines like the Roebuck Special Cuvée, you’ll find classic cocktails with a Sussex twist, a refreshing Hugo made with elderflower liqueur, and a non-alcoholic Botivo Spritz, a drink infused with 12 botanicals, honey and apple cider vinegar. It’s the sort of list where you can discover something new and distinctly local, whether you’re raising a glass of fizz or toasting with something alcohol-free.
A pub for locals and visitors alike
The Horse and Groom remains popular with the locals. Pull up outside on a Friday night and it’s buzzing. With seating at the front and a rear garden, it’s great for the summer but a couple of fires hint at snug winter drinks after a windswept walk. Along with the cosy pub vibe, there is also some striking art and sculpture that give it a modern feel.
Stay and explore
They have 10 stylish rooms (named after local places – I stayed in Singleton) which are a great place to put down some roots for a night or two. Less than a mile from the pub, you find yourself at Kingley Vale Nature Reserve, one of the most remarkable in the region. Famed for its enchanting ancient yew forest (with tales of Viking ghosts) along with 360 views (you can see the tiny yachts lined up in Chichester Harbour), you can sit atop of a Bronze Age burial mound (the Devil’s Humps) and look out across the world. I headed up there for sunrise, with a 6 km walk that took me about an hour and a half (shorter options are available) before sauntering back for breakfast via woodland paths and fields of mint.
The Horse and Groom provide a pamphlet with details of three local walks but you’re also a stone’s throw or two from Chichester, Chichester Harbour, Fishbourne Roman Place and local vineyards. They have a strong connection with Roebuck vineyard, so you might want to head over there for a tour and tasting before you head home.
We were superbly looked after throughout our stay by all the staff, even when I turned up to breakfast too early and without any shoes (don’t ask)! It’s a great little find and a super base for some exploring.
This stay was part of a press event.
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