Cooden Beach is on the up. I say that as someone’s whose last visit was on a cold, bleak day back in the mid 1990s when I stood at the train station and wondered about when the next train out of there was. I have no idea if that’s a fair or accurate memory but it was sufficient to keep me away for the best part of three decades. Therefore, a visit to the Relais Cooden Beach Hotel in 2025, on a beautifully clear sunny day seemed the perfect counter balance.
The Relais Cooden Beach Hotel
The building that is now known as the Relais Cooden Beach Hotel has history. It was built in 1928 by the well known De La Warr family – famous now for the pavilion in nearby Bexhill but a name that pops up across Sussex. Rumour has it that back then, guests included Churchill, the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson.
The previous owners took over the hotel in 2005 (so long after my last visit) and won awards. But in 2021, it was bought by the current owners (renowned hotelier Grace Leo and her partner) and is now a Relais hotel. Relais & Chateaux is an association of independently owned and operated luxury hotels and restaurants that are not part of a chain. The hotel has undergone a major refurbishment and now boasts a restaurant, spa, nearby “world class” golf course and, of course, a number of different rooms.
The hotel and restaurant sits right on the beach with an outdoor eating area abutting the shingle and I visited to eat. We parked in the small free car park in front although there is a train station just up the road.
Let’s eat
The restaurant is divided into the Rally Restaurant and Bar (inside and named after the area’s motorsports history) and the Seaview Terrace (outside). I loved the inside décor which was a mix of deckchair chic and luxury but as the sun was shining, we opted to eat outside. The terrace is lovely because it has such fantastic views of the sea and on a sunny day it is positively tropical. But compared to the rest of the hotel, it does feel like it needs little bit of love to bring it up to par.
The menu was basic but promised local, seasonal produce including catch of the day. If you know me, you’ll know I am getting quite obsessed with knowing precisely where produce is from so it was good to see some named ingredients (Sussex pork belly ) but I’d like more details about provenance please.
That said, our food was superb. We went for a 70s vibe with prawn cocktail washed down with a Kent wine (well we were near(ish) the border) followed by catch of the day and linguini. The flavours of the linguini were really unusual and slightly sweet but lovely, the catch of the day was perfectly cooked and none of the dishes left you feeling either still hungry or stuffed. In other words, they were the perfect size.
We finished with passion fruit cheesecake and a cheese board (yes, with Sussex cheese) and they were both outstanding. Other delights on the menu included steak, Sussex pork belly, a vegetarian quiche and pie.
The staff were lovely but one charming waiter was left on his own to deal with quite a lot of covers and lovely as they were, it felt like the staff would have appreciated a bit more training.
Overall
Did it live up to its luxury boutique restaurant messaging? Well, eating at the Relais Cooden Beach Hotel was a lovely experience but I just felt it was missing the last finishing touches and polish. That said, I’ll definitely be back.
While you in the area
This is Martello tower world, so why not wander along the beach a little to see how many you can spot as there are five within a relatively easy walking distance. Herbrand Walk which becomes Sluice Lane is also an interesting lane to drive and runs almost along the seafront to start. Alternatively, head into Bexhill and check out things to do there including a visit to the De La Warr Pavilion, the museum and, at certain times of the year, a visit to the wreck of the Amsterdam.
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