The White Hart in the centre of Lewes and opposite the law courts is a little piece of Lewes history. Having been run by the same family for many years, in November 2023 it closed for a major refurbishment under new ownership. But it’s now re-opened, and whilst stylishly and sensitively revamped, it’s showcasing a whole new look.
But first, let’s step back in time
The White Hart is a grade II listed, 16th century inn although it was originally a town house owned by the Pelham who lived there from 1653. The front is 19th-century, but the flint wall to the west of the entrance is Elizabethan. In 1717, the building was transformed into a coaching inn by Richard Verrall. Richard Verrall (referred to in Pelham Correspondence as Dick) also served as Constable of Lewes in 1717, 1730, and 1735.
His son was the 18th century chef William Verrall and William took over after his father’s death in 1737 and ran the White Hart until 1760. William advocated the French style of cooking and wrote a pioneering cookbook, A Complete System of Cookery.
The famous radical, Tom Paine, lived in Lewes from 1768 to 1774 at nearby Bull House. He was part of The Headstrong Club, a notorious group that met in The White Hart to discuss politics. Paine wrote Common Sense and The Rights of Man and a blue plaque outside proudly cites the White Hart as “a cradle of American Independence which he [Paine] helped found with pen and sword.”
Jack Fuller, aka Mad Jack, made his campaign headquarters at The White Hart in the 1807 General Election. This was hotly contested, with Fuller (the Tory candidate) opposed by Colonel Warden Sergison of Cuckfield (the Whig candidate). Fuller, who had inherited sugar plantations in Jamaica, was a critic of the abolition movement which didn’t help his campaign. When the election result was announced and Fuller won, apparently rotten eggs were thrown at the balconied Great Room (now renamed the Headstrong Room). However, in order to win, legend has it that Fuller had to pay for nearly 2000 dinners at the White Hart! What’s more, by 1810, Fuller had been expelled from the House of Commons and he had retired from politics by 1812.
Slightly more recently, in 1929, Arthur Henderson, the British Foreign Secretary at the time, met the Soviet Ambassador to Paris at the White Hart. Their meeting led to the resumption of diplomatic relations between Britain and Russia for the first time since the Crimean War ended in 1856.
Stepping forward
The White Hart has been bought by Heartwood Inns who own a number of other pubs and brasseries. In Sussex, they also own the Red Deer in Horsham.
Heartwood have been awarded a three-star Food Made Good rating by The Sustainable Restaurant Association. They were also named as one of the UK’s best employers in the Sunday Times ‘Best Places to Work’ 2024! As the ribbon was cut at the reopening of the White Hart, the team were keen to impress that they want the inn to remain a central hub for the Lewes community. It is a dog and child-friendly pub.
And the new look
The new look was unveiled by the Mayor of Lewes, Councillor Imogen Makepeace, who expressed how impressed she was that the Heartwood had captured the spirit of Lewes with the refurbishment. The inn still has many of the original features and as you enter you’re met by cosy snugs, roaring fires, beams, panelled corridors and a grand dining room that opens onto a huge conservatory-style dining area and large terrace with views across to the Downs. There is a happy combination of traditional and modern styles, some big spaces and lots of nooks and crannies.
Upstairs, expect to find the Headstrong Room, rambling timbered corridors and bedrooms, 23 in all. The rooms are in muted period colours. Chintzy but not too chintzy, with lots of character.
A sneak peek at the menu reveals some interesting dishes and the Heartwood promises seasonal changes. Wild mushroom tartine or French onion soup seem fitting for an autumn day, perhaps followed by their Loomswood Farm duck breast, 8 hour slow-cooked shoulder of Highland venison or a 14 oz chateaubriand, whilst the desserts look wonderfully indulgent. There are vegetarian and vegan options as you’d expect (although not a huge amount of choice for vegetarians) and I would love to know more about which Sussex suppliers they use.
Similarly, they have an impressive drinks menu but I could only spot two Sussex suppliers, namely Nyetimber and Harvey’s. That may not trouble you because there is lots of other choice but my personal plea is … more Sussex please.
It is wonderful to see such an important piece of Lewes and Sussex history lovingly restored and given a new lease of life. The new owners have paid a lot of attention to detail to create a welcoming place to eat, visit or stay, and if you’re exploring the region, what a great place to start absorbing the essence of Sussex history.
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