The Saxons arrived on the Manhood Peninsula in the 6th century and settled on this “Isle of Seals”. Not far behind the Saxons (who were pagan) came St Wilfrid in the early 7th century, and he settled at Church Norton which is just to the east of Selsey and on the edge of Pagham Harbour.
One story is that St Wilfrid came to this part of the world at a time of drought and famine and allegedly taught the locals how to fish, as a result of which (and because they were so delighted) he converted them to Christianity. Whatever really happened, this is where Christianity in Sussex begun and St Wilfrid went on to found a cathedral and monastery at Church Norton. The exact site isn’t known and in due course the Normans decided the proper place for a cathedral was in Chichester but for a time, this quiet spot would have been an important and busy centre of Christianity.
The church
There is still a tiny church here that overlooks Pagham Harbour. The original church was moved stone by stone into Selsey in 1864 but this small replacement (built at the time) still has the 13th century chancel from the Norman church.
Inside, it is simple yet stunning with a 16th century monument to John and Agas Lewis (Lord and Lady of the Manor), a carving depicting the gruesome martyrdom of St Agatha and various interesting stain glass windows which celebrate a combination of women and wildlife. The churchyard is a Commonwealth War Grave and in the corner, you’ll find a number of gravestones curiously stacked against the boundary.
The mound
Right next to the church is a mound (behind a fence). This is a man made earthwork which dates back to the Iron Age, Roman period and the Normans. It is thought it was possibly a Roman villa or look out station and when the Normans arrived, they built a fort or castle here. The harbour waters were much deeper then than they are now so it held an excellent position. There are information boards at the side which tell you more about what life would have been like.
Norton Priory
As you drive towards the car park you’ll see the grand gates of the priory. This may or may not have been the former Medieval rectory of St Wilfrid’s Chapel but it has been subject to a lot of alterations. There is a local story of a tunnel from the priory to the Mound used for smuggling. However, the priory is now privately owned and you can’t visit.
Pagham Harbour
It’s a short walk from the car park down to the mud flats and salt marshes of Pagham Harbour and the sea. This is a quiet little corner of Sussex that has massive significance regardless of your faith. But if nothing else, you can also enjoy some wonderful walks and lots of wildlife here.
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