The Seven Sisters cliffs and Birling Gap are perhaps two of the most dramatic and iconic corners of Sussex. Sweeping views, steep climbs, shimmering chalk and the wild waves of the sea never cease to elicit a sense of awe, however often you visit.
But most locals know that this stretch of Sussex can get a little overcrowded and busy, particularly at peak times. So if you like the path and the views to yourself, while still enjoying the drama of this part of Sussex (not to mention a slice of Birling Gap cake), there is another way: the Went Way.
Went Way
Went Way is an ancient track that runs from Birling Gap up Went Hill, through the tiny village of East Dean and on to Willingdon. It is not hard to imagine yourself following in the footsteps of Saxon drovers or 18th century smugglers as you tread this path.
A short, steep and dramatic walk
You could do this walk from Willingdon to Birling Gap and back and it is just shy of 9 km one way. But there is a shorter and easier way which is just under 2 km from East Dean to Birling Gap (and, of course, 2 km back again).
- Start in East Dean, where there is free parking. Turn south off the A259 and you will quickly see the parking on the right (What3Words:gullible.sides.importing). Head towards the village green where you will find The Tiger Inn and the village memorial. With the pub behind you, cross the green towards the deli and where you meet the lane, turn left. The lane quickly forks, and you take the right-hand lane. This is Went Way and the start of the walk.
- Follow this sleepy lane for a short distance until the lane runs out and through a gate, you will see a chalk path rising upwards ahead and into the wood.
- As you follow the path steeply uphill, you are quickly enveloped in woodland. This is a sycamore wood, home to dozens of rooks’ nests and the birds can be noisy in spring. Just follow the path up, looking out for the first views across to the Belle Tout lighthouse and coast or down beneath you to Birling Manor. The Manor of Birling was originally owned by Odo, Bishop of Baieux, half-brother of William the Conqueror but the Neville family have now owned it for nearly 600 years.
- Suddenly you emerge from the woods to a vast landscape. Hawthorn trees are bent almost double and sheep shelter beneath them. As you walk, look back at East Dean in the valley behind you with the undulating folds of the Downs rolling back beyond it and the clouds shifting the light across the slopes.
- Ahead is the brow of Went Hill, with valleys left and right. Suddenly the dips and rises of the Seven Sisters and the sea beyond come into sight. Birling Gap is beneath you, Belle Tout clearly visible to your left, and a solitary shepherd’s hut braced against the coastal wind sits proud on the brow. It is nothing short of epic.
- Descend at leisure to Birling Gap for coffee, cake and recuperation before retracing your steps.
We walked the Went Way in July and met virtually no one until we started the descent to Birling Gap. Not normally a fan of linear (there and back) walks, we would definitely make an exception for this one as the views are quite remarkable and, despite the popularity of the area, up on Went Hill it still feels wild, remote and untamed. And despite the steep climb, it’s not too long either.
Head back to the Tiger Inn for a well-earned lunch or supper.
If you have enjoyed this article about the Went Way walk from East Dean to Birling Gap (East Sussex), you may also like:
East Dean: The South Downs Village You Almost Miss, Yet Never Forget
