All roads seem to lead to Lewes. Whether you’ve been east to explore Eastbourne, Hastings and Rye, or west to unearth Horsham and Haywards Heath, Lewes is a central point and there are many good reasons to find yourself here. So next time you wash up on Lewes’ shores, why not put down some roots for a day or two and explore?
A little Lewes History
Lewes has a long and fascinating history, thanks in the main part to its strategic position on the river Ouse and in a gap in the South Downs. It’s a market town that pre-dates the Domesday Book in which it gets a mention. There was an Iron Age Fort on nearby Mount Caburn, the Romans certainly hung out in this area, as did the Anglo Saxons. Alfred the Great fortified the town and when William the Conqueror arrived he rewarded William de Warenne (who fought at the Battle of Hastings) by making him Earl of Surrey and granting him the Rape of Lewes. It was de Warenne who built the castle and de Warenne’s wife who built Lewes Priory.
Lewes continued to be a significant town and was, of course, the site of the Battle of Lewes in 1264 when rebel barons led by Simon de Montfort defeated King Henry III’s forces. In later centuries, Lewes Priory was partly demolished as part of the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII and after his reign, Lewes was where 17 Protestant martyrs were executed (which is one of the aspects behind the town’s phenomenal Bonfire Day celebrations).
It is a town with a history that encompasses Royalty and religion, textiles and brewing, and Britain’s deadliest avalanche and it is surrounded by amazing landscape and walks. Right in the heart of Sussex, if you’re visiting Sussex you should make it a central part of your journey.
Travel and logistics
Lewes has an excellent train service, with regular trains from London. There is also a Brighton to Lewes bus service every 10 minutes. If you’re travelling by car, there are lots of car parks in and around the town.
You really need to allow more than a day in Lewes, and we would recommend two days to explore the town, and a couple more days to explore the surrounding area. The White Hart is right in the centre of town if you are looking for somewhere to stay. It’s an historically important building that has recently been refurbished. They don’t have on-site parking, but do have a drop-off point.
Getting your bearings
We picked up a map of Lewes and its places of interest from the pottery shop, Baltica, in Westgate Street. The map costs £1. It is brilliant for highlighting places of interest and has a recommended walking route around the town but as a map, it is almost impossible to follow. There are indexed information boards/maps dotted around the town and there is also an Audioways free QR trail which tells a number of stories about Lewes from local ghosts to fascinating history.
The best idea as you start your explorations is to grab a map that details the main points of interest and supplement that with Google maps. Then dedicate at least a morning walking around the town and getting your bearings.
Spot historic buildings
There are lots of interesting buildings around Lewes and even a trompe l’oeil in Friary Walk. Lots of the buildings have informative plaques and ones to look out for include Pelham House, Fitzroy House, Bull House, the Rights of Man and Castle Place. The town also has quite a lot sculpture that can be fun to spot.
Lewes Castle and the Barbican House Museum
Once you’ve had a good walk around, the most obvious place to start a deeper dive is with a visit to Lewes Castle. This Norman castle dates back to 1087 and it is now owned by the Sussex Archaeological Society.
A climb to the top of the two different towers should be compulsory not just for the magnificent views across Sussex but because it will also give you a sense of just how impressive this stronghold must have been as well as great views of the town today.
The museum below has an assortment of exhibits and artefacts that date from prehistoric to Medieval Sussex, including flints, coins, medals and weapons! The museum may be small but it’s also delightfully quirky!
Lewes Priory
You can’t visit Lewes Castle and not also visit the impressive ruins of Lewes Priory. Founded in the 11th century with monks from France, the Priory of St Pancras survived until 1537. Both de Warenne and his wife Gundrada were buried at the Priory and their remains were discovered in 1845. Much like the castle, the ruins are evocative and atmospheric and you can wander around the grounds of the infirmary, look down on the toilet block (yes really) and imagine the monks tending the original herb garden.
At its peak in the 12th and 13th centuries, the Priory was incredibly important in the region and would have been home to some 100 monks with some 20,000 acres of land. It’s now a Scheduled Ancient Monument and also listed as a building of Historic Interest Grade I.
The house of Anne of Cleves
Another place which you really just have to visit is the house formerly owned by Anne of Cleves, although she never actually lived there. It’s a 16th century timber-framed house that formed part of her divorce settlement and it sits next to another very fine half-timbered house. Also owned by The Sussex Archaeological Society, the house and gardens are open to the public and include a Tudor-style garden, authentic interior furniture, and a small museum. All of which makes this another interesting part of your journey back in time in Lewes.
Southover Grange
Created in 1542 by William Newton (and briefly the home of John Evelyn the diarist), Southover is hidden in plain site in the middle of town. When I first stumbled into this little Lewes oasis, I thought I’d accidentally strayed into private gardens. Home to a mulberry tree rumoured to be 350 years old, there is also a walled garden, a stream, a well and a Jon Edgar sculpture.
St John sub Castro church
If you’ve got a taste for the quirky, head down to this early 19th century church built on the site of an 11th century church. You can see its striking tower as you walk around the back of the castle from Pipe Passage. The graveyard is beautiful, like a little hidden pocket of tranquillity and look carefully and you will find an unusual Finnish memorial. It was paid for by Tsar Alexander II in memory of 28 Finnish soldiers captured in 1854 during the Crimean War. They died of tuberculosis.
You’ll also find the grave of Charles Dawson, the great “Piltdown” hoaxer of 1912 and don’t miss the Saxon door arch in the side of the church.
Bookshops and artisans
Lewes’ 15th century bookshop is every book lover’s dream. Stacked to the beamed rafters with books, including a significant collection of second-hand and collectors’ books, this is the sort of place you dive into for a long, long time. It’s one of a number of independent bookshops in the town.
And if you love nothing better than exploring independent shops and finding talented local artisans, you are also spoilt for choice. Try Needlemakers, an old factory building that is now home to local makers and crafts people, and the The Star Brewery Gallery (housed in a former brewery). And don’t miss the famous Polish pottery shop, Baltica.
Flea markets and reclamations yards
Lewes is home to a number of flea markets and reclamation yards which are perfect for a good rummage and a bargain find.
Food glorious food
Lewes Famers’ Market is held on the first and third Saturday of the month and it also has Friday market in Market Street (where else could it be) and these are the places to go to meet local producers. You’ll find Deans Barn honey, locally produced breads and meat, cheese, cakes and more.
If you’re looking for places to eat, you’ll spot plenty of cafés and restaurants around the town. Squisito is an excellent choice in Needlemakers, and the Rights of Man pub close to the court house is a historic spot in which to dine.
Harvey’s Brewery
Lewes is almost synonymous with beer and Harvey’s Brewery. The brewery is an iconic Lewes landmark as well as being the oldest independent brewery in Sussex. It’s been a family business since 1790 and situated at its current premises at Bridge Wharf since 1838. Now in the hands of the 9th generation, it’s a brewery that has survived family tragedy, fire, floods, and decline but now seems to be going from strength to strength. They do some tours of the brewery and they also now have a shop in Cliffe High Street. And you simply cannot visit Lewes without trying some of their beer!
Charleston in Lewes
With its links to Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury, it’s perhaps no surprise that nearby Charleston House has now opened an exhibition and event space in Lewes, not far from the station. They have a year round programme. There is also a cinema complex in the old brewery complex.
Lewes Railway Nature Reserve
From Railway Lane just off Cliffe High Street you can make your way to a rather unusual nature reserve which is on the site of the old railway yard that closed down in the late 1980s. With the Winterbourne stream at its heart, chalky cliffs as a backdrop and an array of wildlife, flora and fauna, a walk around the reserve is a welcome escape from the town and a chance to reflect.
The Pells
Pells Pools is a lido and the oldest freshwater outdoor public swimming baths in the UK still working. It was built in 1860 and is fed by spring water drawn from the chalk aquifer beneath the baths. The area around the pool was developed as a public pleasure garden in the late Victorian era.
The Round House
For lovers of Virginia Woolf who want to follow in her footsteps around Sussex, it’s worth a quick deviation to Pipe Passage where you’ll find the Grade II listed Round House, originally built as a windmill in 1802. It was bought by Virginia and her husband on a bit of a whim in 1919 although they never actually lived there. A visit really doesn’t take long (it’s privately owned so you can’t go in) but it is one of Lewes’ many curios along with Pipe Passage itself which as the name would suggest used to be home to Lewes’s pipe-making industry.
Venturing out of town
There are dozens of places in the surrounding area that are well worth a visit. Walk at Mount Caburn for incredible views and visit Glynde Place or Glyndebourne. Head over to Isfield and take a ride on the Lavender Line (a heritage line), take a boat trip from the Anchor Inn or enjoy a walk at Barcombe Mills. Head south to Monk’s House at Rodmell
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