Home to celebrities Hugh Bonneville and John Bishop, Midhurst is a historic market town that dates back to the 12th century. Tucked away in the west of West Sussex, there are plenty of things to see and do in Midhurst, from ghosts and ghouls to the Cowdray ruins, sound bathing and some compelling sculptures.
Tragically, a serious fire destroyed the 400 year old Angel Inn in North Street in 2023 and the ruins still stand tall in the main street. In the pub next door to the Angel Inn there was a 16th century wall painting in the bar, depicting the bible story of Naboth’s vineyard but the pub was not able to reopen after the fire. Despite the fire, the town remains a bustling and charismatic community, perfect for a day spent exploring.
The Cowdray Estate
You can’t mention Midhurst and not mention Cowdray Park which is one of the big guns in the Midhurst area. The estate has a fantastically rich history which dates back to the 12th century and it’s a good place to start your visit. Capability Brown developed the grounds in 1770 and they are now Grade II* listed. The ruins that you see today were built in the 16th century. Henry VIII made five visits to the house and Guy Fawkes worked as a footman there briefly.
Then, on 24 September 1793, during a significant restoration project, a fire broke out and reduced the house to the ruins that you can still walk around today. The estate has belonged to the current Viscount Cowdray’s family since 1909 and you can spot the Cowdray Estate properties by their distinctive yellow paintwork. You love it or you hate it!
The Cowdray Estate is now home to a farm shop, a polo club, golf, shooting and some great walks (maps of the walks can be found in the South Downs Centre).
The Midhurst Museum
The Midhurst Museum describes itself as possibly the smallest museum in the world. You’ll find it in the Knockhundred Market and it’s 8’ 6’’ by 8’ 6’’. That’s small! But they change the theme of the display (all Midhurst related) every month and it’s a museum packed with information that they use to commemorate notable events or periods in time. Well worth a visit!
St Ann’s Hill castle ruins
Not quite as grand as the Cowdray ruins but equally as evocative are the ruins of a Norman motte and bailey castle on St Ann’s Hill. Once a strategic position, the footings and foundations are now visible in amongst the trees not far from the river Rother. They won’t take you long to explore, but you may find you just want to sit and reflect here for a while.
The town centre
It’s worth spending time exploring the shops, back streets and buildings of the town. There are about 100 listed buildings in Midhurst including Tudor, Georgian and Victorian buildings. Take a stroll up Knockhundred Row, Church Hill and Market Square and you’ll see timbered buildings, vine clad facades and the distinctive 13th and 16th century church. As you explore, you’ll also find lots of independent shops and cafés whether you’re after local wine, books, French cuisine or fashion!
On the first Saturday of every month, from 9.00 am to 2.00 pm, the market has a whole heap of local produce and artisan goods. It’s held (unsurprisingly) in Market Square. At the other end of the town, or rather in Easebourne, and close to the Cowdray farm shop is another interesting church.
South Downs Centre
If you’re interested in walking, then visit the South Downs visitor centre more or less opposite the main car park. They have heaps of resources there including maps, books, guides and more. They also have details of the Midhurst Town Trail (which takes you to a number of the town’s notable buildings) and information about notable town characters like Richard Cobden and HG Wells.
Wellbeing in Midhurst
Midhurst has its own spa in the form of The Spread Eagle. There they have a Scandinavian-style heated pool and a jacuzzi spa pool but you could also try sound bathing with Ancient Sacred Sounds. This incredibly talented musician hosts a number of sound bathing sessions in the town throughout the year.
South Pond
South Pond is a significant landmark in the town. It is fed by two streams which form the division between the oldest part of Midhurst and West Lavington. You can still see the old mill house and a pump. Elizabeth I visited Cowdray in 1591 and was entertained on the banks of the lower pool. These days, you can also see a sculpture of Dante by Philip Jackson to the side of the pond.
A trip to Cocking!
Talking of Philip Jackson, just under three miles from Midhurst is the action-packed village of Cocking. I say action-packed because although you might miss it if you blinked when driving this way, there are three very good reasons to visit Cocking. The first is that it is home to the workshop of sculptor Philip Jackson, known for a number of notable works including the statue of Terence Cuneo at Waterloo station, the Bobby Moore statue at Wembley, Mahatma Gandhi in Parliament Square and the statue of Elizabeth II, in Windsor Great Park. His work is quite remarkable and he opens his garden for visits in the summer (contact his team to arrange a visit).
Another reason to visit Cocking is the Church of St Catherine of Siena which dates from the 11th century (although it was subsequently altered in the 12th to 14th and 19th centuries). From the graveyard, you can see teasing aspects of Philip Jackson’s beautiful garden. When you’re finished, head to the Blue Bell pub which is owned by the local community and serves local produce and ales, is dog friendly, has a garden, and is an official South Downs Information Point with cycle repair facilities on site.
Midhurst walks
You cannot visit Midhurst without getting out and about to explore the local countryside. The South Downs Way runs south of the town and The Serpent Trail which starts in Haslemere, passes Midhurst and wiggles on to Petworth. Alternatively, try exploring Woolbeding Common or head east a little to Benbow Pond. From here you can walk to the famous tree called the “Queen Elizabeth I Oak” which was allegedly visited by Queen Elizabeth I in 1591 and was already old then. The size of its girth makes it the second thickest tree of its kind in Europe whilst it’s thought that it could be up to 1,000 old!
Uppark and Harting Down
West of Midhurst is the beautiful, 17th century, National Trust property of Uppark House and Gardens. It feels magnificently remote and commands majestic views. Decorated with exquisite French furniture, delicate Dutch porcelains, and captivating Italian paintings, it’s riddled with interesting stories such as Sir Harry Fetherstonhaugh’s famous parties with guests including the Prince of Wales and the notorious Emma Hamilton who is said to have danced naked on the dining table. It has fascinating servants’ quarters, a unique 18th-century dolls house, and a summer trail. Nearby is Harting Down which has stunning views and from where you could walk back to Cocking along the Downs. Bizarrely, there was also a horrendous fire at the house in the 1980s. They are reopening in the summer of 2025 so make a date in your diary to visit.
Meditation at Chithurst monastery
Just a short drive from Midhurst, down a narrow country lane, you’ll find Chithurst and Chithurst monastery. At this Buddhist retreat, you can join the monks to either immerse yourself in their way of life or just for some of their daily routines and practices, such as preparing a meal or practicing meditation.
Woolbeding Gardens
Less than 2 miles northwest of Midhurst are Woolbeding Gardens (owned by the National Trust), comprising of a total of 1102 acres, of which 26 acres are devoted to the gardens. The gardens consist of two distinct sections: an area of formal garden rooms and a less formal Pleasure Ground. The garden rooms each have a different colour and theme and include a vegetable garden, well garden, fountain garden, herb garden, pool and orangery. There are also follies, a ruined abbey, a Chinese-style bridge, a Gothic summer house and a River God grotto.
MADhurst Festival
Midhurst has its own music, arts and drama festival which showcases a variety of entertainment during August.
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