In the far corner of East Sussex, and not far from Hastings, the Cinque Port of Rye oozes history and charm at almost every corner. You rarely have to walk far to enjoy impressive views, ghost stories and intrigue, and its timbered buildings, cobbled streets and fortifications hint at a life of invasions, defence, survival and resilience. These days, it’s a small, bustling yet intimate town packed with charisma and perfect for exploring.
The good news is that Rye is easy to get to grips with and has an abundance of historical and architectural landmarks from different periods stirred into a melting pot along with quirky boutiques and great cafés and restaurants. When you arrive, and whether you’re an old timer or enjoying your first time here, there are, of course, certain places that you really must visit to get a real sense of the town, and with this in mind, here is our recommended list of top things to do in Rye (along wth a little potted history).
A very potted history of Rye
Like a lot of Sussex, Rye’s history includes the Romans. During that era, Rye was a place used for iron export, although probably not inhabited as a town. By the time of the Saxons, Rye was part of the Manor of Rameslie, which was gifted to the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy (as promised by King Æthelred the Unready and carried out by Canute).
So began a long entanglement with France, which saw Rye remain under Norman or French control until 1247. Certified as a full member of the Cinque Port confederation in 1336, the town has seen attacks and invasions by the French, as well as mass migration in the form of fleeing Huguenots in the 16th and 17th centuries. Famous for its smugglers and its fortifications, the town has a commanding position and views, and was once situated on the coast (although the sea has long since retreated to some two miles away at Rye Harbour).
Rye also has wool, fishing and pottery pedigrees, and is intrinsically linked to the surrounding nature reserves and salt marshes.
Landgate and cobbled streets
Start your exploring at Landgate, one of the main entrances into the town. It was built as one of four (it’s the only one left) in 1329 as part of Edward III’s fortifications and remains impressive.
Landgate is on the north side of the town and only a short walk from the train station.
From there, you climb East Cliff, with views across the marshes to your left, and arrive at the east end of the High Street. Spend a little time strolling around the backstreets and getting your bearings. There are lots of lovely shops and boutiques if you just want a good browse, but remember to look up as some of the buildings have really interesting plaques and details. And don’t miss the incredible Rye Deli! A veritable treasure trove of delights.
Ypres Tower and the museum
When you’re ready, head up East Street to Rye Castle Museum: Ypres Tower. Its history is a little unclear, but it’s believed to have been built in the 13th century, if not before. It was originally called “Baddings Tower”, and over the centuries, it has been a prison and a courthouse. It has a little garden and an artillery battery, known as the Gun Garden. Just down the road is the East Street Museum, which is part of the same museum but which is only open at weekends from April until October.
St Mary’s Church
The church sits at the heart of the old town, not far from Ypres Tower, and it’s pretty hard to miss. It dates back to the 12th century. As you might expect, it’s a fascinating church and worth a little time spent here.
Particular things of note include the clock, which dates to the 16th century and was made by the Huguenot Lewys Billiard. Look for the gold Quarter boys, so named because they strike the quarter of an hour!
And if you are brave, for £5 you can climb the church tower to view the town from above. As you climb, you have to squeeze down a narrow corridor, pass the bells (looted and taken to France in 1377 before being reclaimed) and up a couple of ladders…but it’s well worth it!
Kino
If you have the time, why not take in a film at Kino, not far from the church? Set in a former Victorian library, there is a cinema here as well as a café-bar.
Lamb House Exhibition and Garden
Lamb House is a very short walk from the church. It’s a National Trust property and was once home to (or visited by) a number of literary types, including Henry James, E F Benson, and Rumer Godden. If you like the idea of romantic writing rooms and a good old-fashioned typewriter, this is absolutely the place for you. They also have changing exhibitions.
Outside the main house is the most enchanting walled garden with a winding path and some incredible trees. It feels exotic and quintessentially English at the same time.
Strand Quay
At the south west side of the town, you’ll find Strand Quay. This would once have been a bustling dock, with boats coming and going, and fishermen’s huts and warehouses.
Today, you’ll find the Heritage Centre here, which is home to the “Story of Rye”, a 15-minute sound and light show featuring the famous Rye Town Model. You’ll also find antique shops and bric-a-brac, cafés and Rye Pottery. Rye Pottery dates back to the 1700s. Look out for their famous Sussex pigs.
Head back into town via Mermaid Street, where you’ll find the famous Mermaid Inn and one of the most photographed views in the country. The cellars at the Mermaid Inn date back to 1156, with other parts of the building dating to the early 15th century. The inn is said to be haunted and was famously the hangout for the notorious smugglers, the Hawhurst Gang.
The Grapevine Jazz and Champagne bar
As the sun sets, head to Conduit Hill, a cobbled street off the High Street, and you’ll see the cellar windows of this uber-cool bar glowing in the dusk just above the line of the cobbled street. With live music, sip on champagne and cocktails, and soak up the sophistication!
Rye Waterworks Micro Pub
If champagne isn’t your thing, then the Rye Waterworks Micropub (housed in a former pump house, as the name suggests) has a great reputation for local beer!
Festivals
Coincide your visit with one of the many great festivals and events that take place in Rye. You are spoilt for choice:
- Rye Bay Scallop Week (February)
- Rye Pirates and Smugglers Day (August)
- Rye International Jazz and Blues Festival (August)
- Rye Arts Festival (September)
- Rye Bonfire Night (November)
- Church Christmas Tree Festival (December)
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