It’s been three years since I started exploring Sussex, in addition to the 50 something years that I have lived here. But lately, and increasingly often, I have been asked the same two questions: “You visit all these beautiful places but what’s the real Sussex like?” and “What are the main things you’ve learnt about Sussex?”. I thought I’d attempt to answer both questions in one go and so in very broad terms, and looking back over the last three years, these are four of the big tickets things that I’ve noticed:
Is Sussex over developed?
As a lawyer, travelling from one town and court to another either by train or by car, whizzing along the main arteries of the county, I was under the impression that Sussex was so overdeveloped that there was barely any countryside left. I was wrong. Of course, there are large areas of development much the same as there are anywhere else in the country. But you only have to walk up Levin Down or the Trundle in West Sussex, or Ashdown Forest and Firle Beacon in the east, to see that there are still vast swathes of woodland and countryside. It is, in fact, relatively easy to feel like you’re somewhere remote and far from the madding crowd, and indeed you are. Even well known paths like the South Downs Way have large stretches where you’ll meet no one and the Serpent Trail can feel positively wild and untamed.
Is there anything left to discover?
Yes, on multiple levels. I am constantly surprised about how little most of us know about our own homestead surroundings. There are ruins, waterfalls, caves, forgotten gardens, intriguing gravestones and monuments, some of which are well known but many of which aren’t. Not to mention the thousands or even millions of stories. And the more curious you become, the more there is to discover. In every corner of every district and parish, you’ll find experts whose knowledge of the details reveal hidden gems. Armed with an Ordnance Survey map, a little bit of local back reading, and a little bit of investigation, and a million fascinating stories reveal themselves. I was lucky enough to buy a copy of The Rising Down by Alexandra Harris recently recommended by Elspeth Bray and it is an absolute treasure trove of undiscovered Sussex stories.
The real Sussex folk
When I started exploring, it didn’t occur to me that Sussex people had their own cultural identity. I don’t know whether it’s because I am getting older and am more engaged with the concept of Sussex, or whether people are changing (which I sense that they are) but Sussex people are a very specific type. The unofficial Sussex motto is “We wont be druv!” or in other words, Sussex folk are strong-minded, determined and won’t be pushed about and that is definitely part of our identity. But the people I meet seem to hold Sussex traditions dear, place value on what’s around them (both past and present) whilst still being forward-thinking. Sussex people are funny, kind, innovative and great appreciators of nature. Sure, the same can probably be said for people of every county but I can only comment on what I know and see. And there is definitely an essence of Sussex and my sense of this is encouraged by the increasing popularity of events like Sussex Day and the resurgence of Morris dancing in town centres, local art trails and the many other daily celebrations of local life.
The future
Sussex is definitely changing. Just 15 years ago when my children were small, I remember the expectation of snow in winter which has now been replaced with the knowledge that it will rain. A lot. Back then, I was also aware of only two vineyards (although there were a few more than that), namely Denbies in Surrey, because the train went past it and Bolney because I lived near it. These days there are over 130 Sussex vineyards, surely no clearer testament of the changing climate. And the Chalk Stone walk I did recently was just another reminder that stone which should have disintegrated many years ago due to the cold, hasn’t. Because it hasn’t been that cold. From where I stand, the combination of a changing climate, challenging global, national and local politics, and that good old Sussex cultural identity have created the perfect storm. They might not admit it, but Sussex people seem to embrace change. Our new wine culture and Sussex winelands are the best example of this but overall, it feels like Sussex folk are grabbing the very best of what has always been here in terms of landscape, resources and traditions and creating a new, interesting, vibrant and hopefully sustainable future. It feels like an exciting and intriguing place to live. Because it is.
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