Sitting here in a pair of warm socks, it is hard to believe that just two weeks ago we were sweating our way through another heatwave. Yet almost overnight, it seems, there has been a change. The mornings are cooler, the evenings are drawing in and there is that unmistakable crisp call of autumn in the air. After an exceptional summer, many of the leaves are already brown and falling, while the leaden skies of the last few days heralded the arrival of September with rather more conviction than we might have liked.
Reluctant though we are to let go of those long, hot, lingering summer evenings, there is something wonderfully reassuring about autumn. And in Sussex, it is arguably one of the most glorious seasons of all.
Head out into the countryside now and, despite the long weeks of heat and drought, there is abundance everywhere. Hedgerows are heavy with blackberries, hawthorn berries and sloes. Plum and damson trees are bent with fruit and apple trees are positively groaning beneath the weight of this year’s crop. It is the season of gathering, cooking and coming home hungry from long walks. Of warming food, muddy boots and something delicious waiting in the kitchen.
So, as summer slips away and we start looking towards the colder months ahead, we’ve delved into the Sussex Exclusive recipe collection for three favourites that feel just right for autumn. Better still, each has a distinctly Sussex flavour. Whether you need something quick when you get home, a warming dish after a walk in the rain or something delicious to pack in your rucksack, we’ve got you covered.
For a quick autumn warmer: Sussex Cheese Toasties
There are cheese toasties. And then there are Sussex cheese toasties.
We first came across this particular recipe a few years ago, courtesy of Chris Hayes, founder of Blue Cloud cheese in Balcombe, and it remains an absolute corker. Blue Cloud is a Sussex blue cheese made from the milk of cows that graze in the fields around the dairy. Add some good locally baked sourdough (Sussex certainly isn’t short of excellent artisan bakers) and you have the makings of a very fine autumn lunch.
It is simple, quick and gloriously comforting: crisp sourdough on the outside and rich, melting Sussex cheese within. Exactly the sort of thing you want when you’ve been out walking and the temperature has suddenly dropped. Serve it on its own for a light lunch or take things up a notch and pair it with a glass of Sussex wine. After all, when both our vineyards and cheesemakers are producing such exceptional things, it seems only polite to enjoy them together.
Perfect for: a quick lunch after an autumn walk, preferably eaten with cold cheeks and muddy boots.
For warming up after the rain: Sussex Smokie
If you want a dish with Sussex running right through it, it’s difficult to beat a Sussex Smokie.
This traditional comfort food dates back to the 1800s and combines smoked haddock with a rich, creamy cheese sauce and a breadcrumb and cheese topping. Traditionally served in individual dishes, it can work equally well as a starter or, in a larger portion, as a wonderfully warming main course.
There are various versions of the recipe, which is part of its charm. You can tweak it, adapt it and make it your own, but the basic combination of smoky fish, creamy sauce and crunchy topping is hard to improve upon. And this is food designed for autumn. Imagine coming home after a walk across the Downs or through the Sussex Weald when the rain has been coming at you sideways. The boots come off, the coat goes over the radiator and something hot and bubbling emerges from the oven.
The Sussex Smokie may not have the fame of some of the county’s better-known culinary traditions, but perhaps that’s another reason we love it. It is warming, unpretentious and absolutely delicious.
Perfect for: those grey, rain-lashed autumn days when only proper comfort food will do.
For taking autumn with you: Apple and Pumpkin Spice Muffins
Finally, something for those days when, rather than coming home from a walk, you’re just setting off. At this time of year, apple trees across Sussex are laden with fruit, making September and October the perfect months to gather, cook, preserve and bake.
Sarah at Sussex Kitchen has created a number of recipes that make the most of seasonal produce, including these apple and pumpkin spice muffins. Combining grated apple with pumpkin purée and autumn spices, they are moist, delicious and wonderfully practical. They make an easy grab-and-go breakfast, a wholesome after-school snack and, perhaps best of all, excellent walking fuel.
They are budget-friendly too, particularly if you have apples to use up, and a great way of making sure leftover pumpkin purée doesn’t languish forgotten at the back of the fridge. Make a batch before a weekend walk, wrap a couple up and tuck them into your rucksack. Then all you need to find is a good Sussex view and somewhere to sit.
Perfect for: a boost of energy on those long autumn walks, a pack lunch or a sweet treat without the guilt.
Autumn on a plate
Autumn has arrived in Sussex and it tastes rather good. So while we may still be mourning those long summer evenings, pull on the warm socks, lace up the walking boots and make the most of it.
If you have enjoyed a taste of autumn, you may also like:
