Sussex Exclusive caught up with Matthew Harris, Head Chef at Harry’s at The Gallivant at Camber Sands and ex-Bibendum chef. Over a lingering lunch, we talked about Sussex ingredients, favourite dishes and living by the coast.
How does the landscape around Camber influence the food you create?
It’s less the landscape itself and more the incredible produce and livestock around here. We’re surrounded by farmers who rear fantastic lamb, Sussex beef, and really good poultry. In early summer, we get amazing asparagus, followed by Kent strawberries and cherries, and throughout the year, we have brilliant brassicas and potatoes. And of course, the fish is exceptional; we get beautiful catches from Rye Harbour and Hastings. We really do have the pick of the crop.
Is the lamb you use Romney Marsh lamb?
Yes, it’s salt-marsh lamb, much like Pevensey. You’d struggle to tell the difference between the two because they graze in very similar environments. But you’d definitely notice the difference between salt-marsh lamb and, say, South Downs lamb.
Harry’s is described as French-inspired with a Californian twist. How does that work alongside Sussex produce?
The Gallivant has that Californian-by-the-coast feel with a touch of the Hamptons, but Harry’s is more rooted in classic French cookery, using British, and especially Sussex, produce. It’s French foundations with a modern, coastal edge.
You mentioned producers, how local is “local” for you?
Very local. For example, we have a mushroom forager who brings in what he’s picked just a few miles away: ceps, black trumpets, girolles, chanterelles. He texts me in the morning, picks them and drops them in at lunchtime. You can’t get much fresher than that.
Is there a single Sussex ingredient that really inspires you?
Fish. Without question. We’re a seaside restaurant and the quality of fish off this coast (skate, sea bass, everything from the Rye and Hastings boats) is outstanding. It’s a huge part of what we do.
Skate is a bit of a forgotten fish for some people — how should it be cooked?
It’s one of my favourite fish and a top recommendation. Pan-roasted is best. Lightly floured so it gets a crust, then cooked in brown butter with capers, a splash of sherry vinegar and lots of parsley.
If someone came in after a blustery beach walk, what would you recommend from the winter menu?
For a starter, snails with garlic and parsley butter, bubbling hot and perfect with good bread. For mains, roast partridge with a very English garnish: prune and bacon rolls, bread sauce, game crumbs and a juniper gravy.
What’s your off-duty favourite meal?
I don’t have one favourite dish, it changes with the seasons. But we live in Hastings, so we eat a lot of fish. The fishmongers are a three-minute walk from home.
You’re Sussex-born? What brought you back to the coast?
I grew up just outside Brighton but lived in London for more than 35 years. When my son moved out, I always knew I wanted to return to Sussex. Harry (owner of The Gallivant) whom I’ve known a long time, approached me about the role, and the timing was perfect. We loved the idea of moving, so we did. And I absolutely love it here.
Hastings and Rye have such a creative scene. What do you enjoy about living here?
It’s quirky, lively, and there’s always something happening: parades, festivals, events on the seafront. But it feels more rural and untouched because the roads slow everything down a bit! But that’s part of its charm.
Are there any emerging food trends that excite you, or anything new coming to The Gallivant?
Trends come and go, but if something’s good, it’s good. For us, it’s all about seasonality. We’ll have truffles coming in around Christmas and January, which I love. Then spring arrives, and everything starts again: new produce, new ideas.
Do you have a favourite Sussex pub or hidden spot?
In Hastings Old Town, we’ve got about twenty pubs within a short walk, and any that serve Harvey’s are always good. As for a hidden gem, Rock-a-Nore Kitchen in Hastings. It’s tiny, serves only fish, and everything is cooked with real care. Two chefs, one front-of-house and the fish comes straight from the boats. It’s brilliant.
Final question: What time do the Hastings boats come in with the day’s catch?
(Laughs) Practically the middle of the night. They work with the tides, out with the tide, back with the tide. You need to be there very early if you want to see them come in.
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Pitts-Stop at Harry’s restaurant, The Gallivant at Camber Sands
