There is nothing quite as wholesomely winteresque or innocently indulgent as a spot of morning shopping in Rye, followed by a wild and windswept walk on the beach at Camber Sands in East Sussex. It’s a corner of Sussex that still manages to feel remote and uncharted, especially as you leave the cobbled streets behind you and head out to the flat and coastal landscape beyond.
Most Sussex folk now know that what was once a motel at Camber Sands, was converted, some years ago, into the uber-stylish “Californian beach vibes meets shabby chic” Gallivant Hotel (where their motto is Happiness is a Place and they have their own Head of Happiness). In the last couple of years, The Gallivant has won Small Hotel of the Year 2024 (Visit England Awards), a Michelin Key for its accommodation and received a mention in the Michelin Guide for its restaurant, Harry’s. Harry’s was relaunched under the stewardship of ex-Bibendum chef Matthew Harris in early 2025. And when Sussex Exclusive got an invitation to sample their Sunday roast, we didn’t need to think twice as we hopped in the car and drove east.
Your arrival
Flustered and blustered, and straight from a bracing winter walk on the beach, The Gallivant wraps you up in its welcoming charm. If you’re not ready to eat yet or are putting off the inevitable journey home after lunch, why not pull up a chair by the fire, grab a book and sink into a sofa in the snug, or ease back at the bar and try a local wine. Decorated with framed vintage swimming costumes, it’s a super cool and stylish interior which feels luxurious, warm and homely – a clever balance for a seaside hotel. When you drift through to the dining room, it eases into a slightly exotic feel with large hanging plants and lots of light. And relax, you can feel that you’re in safe hands here.
The menu
The menu has Matthew’s signature style, with classic French dishes highlighting local, highly seasonal produce. “Harry’s is classic French cooking using British, and especially Sussex produce, and seen through a Sussex lens: modern, seasonal and shaped by the coast.” explains Matthew as we ponder the menu.
My eye lingers over oysters, moules marinere and roast cod. “We’re a seaside restaurant and the quality of fish off this coast (skate, sea bass, everything from the Rye and Hastings boats) is outstanding. It’s a huge part of what we do.”
In the end, despite the seafood temptations, my colleague opts for chicken, ham, pistachio and tarragon terrine, and I choose golden beetroot and Cashel Blue, with watercress, hazelnut and a Banyuls dressing, accompanied by a glass each of Gusbourne Brut Réserve. Yes, I know, Gusbourne is in Kent, but it is only about 15 km away, so I can live with that, not least as it had just the right notes of brioche but still managed to feel light.
Both dishes were beautifully (and promptly) presented and mouthwateringly good. And neither was too heavy nor too filling to stop us in our tracks for the next course.
The wild mushroom risotto called my name, not least because Matthew explained their mushrooms are foraged locally and often picked the same day (and you don’t get much more local than that), but in the end, it was Harry’s Sunday Roast that called the loudest. After all, what’s not to love about sirloin of Sussex beef, cloud-like Yorkshire pudding and all the trimmings? And as someone who is not a fan of mashed potatoes, the celeriac mash is a superb alternative with subtle texture and flavour whilst not being too heavy. While my colleague washed this all down with a Sussex still white, I moved on to an interesting and refreshing non-alcoholic sparkling wine.
Not being a quitter, we didn’t take much persuading to soldier on to dessert. Because frankly, who isn’t tempted by greengage and blackberry clafoutis flambé with vanilla ice cream or St Emilion au chocolat and a thoughtful pairing suggestion. Yes, it was as good as it looks.
The service
The service was fantastic and they are definitely living by their motto here. Attentive, friendly and helpful, you’re made to feel like you’re a regular here, from the moment you arrive until you drag yourself back out through the door. Dining here is a superb experience: local ingredients prepared with flair and passion, and a soupçon of luxury. It’s the perfect mix.
Top tips and recommendations
Book now to coincide your visit with next year’s Rye bonfire celebrations. Arrive on Saturday afternoon for some early Christmas shopping and later, witness one of the most impressive bonfire parades in the county. The streets of Rye are filled with marching effigies, costumes, banners and more before the main event below the main town. It’s quite a show. After overnighting at The Gallivant, enjoy a morning walk on the beach before Harry’s Sunday Roast. Honestly, weekends don’t get much more Sussex than that!
**This visit was part of a Press Event. **
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