The South Downs are a spectacular, inviting area now protected for all times for everyone. Yet in the 17th century the Downs played a part in a journey which changed the course of history. Luckily it is still possible to trace the route taken along what is now called Monarch’s Way and identify places and people involved.
A Royal revolt
After King Charles I was beheaded in January 1649, Britain became a commonwealth under Oliver Cromwell for the next eleven years. The King was succeeded by his eldest son, also Charles, born in 1630, who was then in exile in Europe. However, resentment against the government, especially over excessive taxation, grew rapidly and Charles saw a window of opportunity to regain the throne. Charles landed in Scotland in 1650 where he was welcomed and crowned king. He gathered forces to march south to confront the Parliamentarian army which led to the Battle of Worcester on the 3rd September 1651. The Royalists were routed and Charles was lucky to escape with a small band of supporters. Eager to reach safety in Europe, he disguised himself as a servant, William Jackson. Charles had his hair cut short but he could not hide his height of over six foot and an “olive” complexion possibly inherited from Medici ancestors on his mother’s side. Cromwell put up a reward of £1000 for his capture – a vast amount in 1651. Yet there were still Royalist families in England who would support Charles at great personal risk to themselves.
A change of plan
From Worcester, Charles and his small party journeyed south but failed to find a ship at Bristol, Bridport or Lyme Regis. A decision was thus made to ride eastwards to seek passage from another south coast port. The party entered West Sussex near Rowlands Castle to take an ancient track across the South Downs avoiding well garrisoned coastal areas such as Chichester, where the local MP, William Cawley, was a staunch Parliamentarian as were many of the citizens. Although there was limited Royalist support in West Sussex, there were still prominent families who would quietly help the King on his way, whilst knowing the risks they were taking.
The first estate, the party reached in West Sussex was the Stansted estate then owned by the Catholic, Royalist Lumley family who, because of their allegiances, had to be circumspect in their dealings with the King. However, close to Stansted House, Charles was met by Colonel George Gunter of the nearby Racton estate and his cousin, Captain Thomas Gunter, who then went ahead to secure a passage for the king from a port along the coast. After leaving Stansted, the King’s party rode to Bow Hill, entered Kingley Vale and then the West Dean estate of the Royalist Lewknor family. The family head, John Lewknor was “lukewarm” about Charles’ mission to regain the throne but he did not impede his journey or reveal his whereabouts to Parliamentarian troops searching for the King in the area.
Charles and his followers then crossed the Goodwood estate via Stoke Down keeping to the north of Halnaker and Slindon Park. Goodwood was then part of the large West Sussex holdings of the Earls of Northumberland. The then earl had been a member of the House of Lords and initially a supporter of Cromwell. However, he had opposed the trial of Charles I and had to retire from public life. Yet, his main residence was then Petworth House miles to the north and he only used Goodwood House as a hunting lodge. The earl was possibly unaware that the King was crossing his land or felt it prudent to ignore this and claim ignorance if later questioned.
Riding north of Arundel, the party managed to spot and avoid the hunting party of Colonel Herbert Morley MP of Glynde, now in East Sussex, whom Cromwell had appointed as governor of Arundel Castle. Charles and his supporters then continued their journey by descending to Houghton and crossing the river Arun at Amberley, where they galloped unhindered across the bridge surprising the troops guarding it.
The King’s party climbed again to the north side of the downs and rode on to Bramber – possibly visiting St Mary’s on the main village street near the bridge over the river Adur to reach Beeding and then finally Brighton on 14th October. On the 7am tide on 15th October 1651, Charles escaped from Shoreham on a coal barge, the “Surprise” captained by Nicholas Tattersall, for France. At around 11am, Parliamentarian troops entered Shoreham searching for him. Charles remained in exile until the Restoration in 1660 and eventually died in his bed in 1685. He was possibly received into the Catholic Faith as he lay dying; this was the religion of his mother, several of his siblings and his much neglected wife, Catherine of Braganza.
Despite acknowledging 14 illegitimate children by various mistresses, Charles left no direct heir but he had contributed to a more “democratic” form of monarchy and avoided the beliefs and actions of his father which had led to the Civil War. Charles was succeeded by his younger brother, James, a devote Catholic which led to tensions with Parliament and the increasingly Protestant population. As the last Catholic monarch, James was forced to flee to exile in Europe in 1688 and the British monarchy has remained Protestant ever since.
During the demolition of the Gunter’s family seat, Racton House, in 1830, a secret drawer was discovered in a bureau which contained Colonel Gunter’s written account of the King’s journey across Sussex. It is a contemporaneous manuscript now in the British Library (Add. MSS 9008) which did verify the route taken in 1651 across the Downs in West Sussex. The King’s escape route is well marked on maps as a reminder of events which changed history. It is an undulating track suitable for walkers, riders and cyclists now recognised as a “National Trail” named the Monarch’s Way. It offers spectacular views across the countryside with access to places of interest and nearby resources for refreshments along the route. St Mary’s in Bramber is open to the public and runs various events during the warmer months, whilst there is also public access to Stanstead Park and West Dean Gardens both with modern facilities for visitors.
Over a journey of several hundred miles from Worcester as a fugitive, Charles was lucky to avoid capture. If apprehended, he would most likely have suffered the same fate as his father and British history would have been very different.
The lucky escape of Charles II and Monarch’s Way is told by Helena Millen.
If you’ve enjoyed this post about the Monarch’s Way, you may also like:
