Having munched our way through our East Sussex food trail recently, we thought it was time for a West Sussex food trail. And not just any one old food trail that simply says wine, bread and cheese. While there is nothing wrong with that (and we’ll definitely throw in some cheese), we thought you’d like something a little different. So here is our very own West Sussex food trail which entwines itself round local history, culture and folklore. This is designed for a two day tour but can easily be spread out over three days to give you more time to explore.
Day 1. Petersfield to Selsey
Of course, Petersfield is not actually in Sussex (although I am working on that). But the first foodie destination of this tour is just outside Petersfield but over the border within West Sussex, so you might as well start your journey here. Petersfield is a historic town with a good foodie pedigree and they hold regular farmers markets and festivals. Have a good mooch around and then head out of town to Sky Park Farm in West Harting. You can, if you want, walk there, via the Serpent Trail which will take you almost to the door. The walk takes about an hour.
The sky is the limit when it comes to venison
Sky Park Farm is a foodie’s heaven and these guys really major on local. They have a fabulous farm shop (Winner of the Small Farm Shop Category 2024) and their own butchery with a dry ager and smoker. They make their own bacon and biltong, with their speciality being their own farm reared venison. Their cheese counter is to die for so stock up with supplies and head to their bar and grill for lunch where you can have some of the best venison burgers in the county.
Next stop you’re heading to the Manhood Peninsula. Petersfield to Selsey will take you about 45 minutes by car or you can take a bus from Petersfield to Midhurst and then down to Selsey. In the well known folk poem The Seven Good Things of Sussex, this part of the world gets two mentions. Chichester is mentioned for its lobster and Selsey is mentioned for its cockles which is one of the reasons you’re heading here now. Today of course, Selsey is also best known for its Selsey crab.
Fishing is still very important in Selsey, and some of the fishing families can trace their histories back to the 16th century. It’s also an incredibly important spot when it comes to the history of Sussex, with St Wilfrid building the first cathedral here (in about 680) and teaching the locals to fish, and Romans, Saxons and Normans all coming this way. So while you’re here, try your hand at a bit of sea angling on one of the many beaches, or get there super early one morning and watch the catch of the day being landed. On the way out of Selsey and before you get to the RSPB visitor centre, there is a farm shop and tea room and you can buy fresh Selsey crab there.
For dinner, head east a little to Pagham Harbour and the Crab and Lobster at Sidlesham Quay where you can try some of that catch of the day. They have rooms, so you can stay here the night and enjoy a walk around Pagham Harbour either last thing at night or first thing in the morning. Visit Church Norton and the site of the Norman castle to get a sense of the history.
Day 2. Selsey to Worthing
On day two, it’s time to try your hand at some foraging. Sussex has a number of first rate foraging experiences on offer. Foraged by Fern is based at Worthing but offers a number of different workshop and foraging experiences in the area, including near Chichester, the South Downs and Worthing itself. You can try your hand at mushroom and truffle hunting, finding edible berries and other seasonal produce and you’ll have a picnic. Fern also hosts all sorts of workshops including Forage & Ferment, wild cocktail workshops and wild garlic walks but you need to book early as she sells out space quite fast. From Selsey, catch the bus to Chichester and then the train or bus along the coast to Worthing.
If you’ve had a picnic you might not want lunch, but if you haven’t, head back to the coast. Crabshack in Worthing has a laid back café bar atmosphere and serves sustainable seafood. Alternatively, Seaview in East Preston has a fabulous menu and a very stylish feel.
Knuckers and spirits
After lunch, make a little detour to Lyminster, just outside Arundel. This is the home of a knuckerhole. According to folklore, a knucker was a dragon who lived in a watery hole and there is a tombstone at Lyminster church called the Slayer’s Slab, supposed to be from the tomb of the dragon slayer. There are a number of famous stories about the knucker of Lyminster that include the knucker eating all the maidens in the area, leaving only the King of Sussex’s daughter. The King offered his daughter’s hand in marriage to anyone who could deliver her from the dragon’s jaws and a knight then successfully killed the beast. They also say that a young, local lad, Jim Puttock, fed the dragon a poisoned pie so huge it needed a horse and cart to transport it to the knuckerhole. The dragon ate the pie, the cart, and the horse, and subsequently died.
For the last stop on your West Sussex food trail, you’re heading to Slake Spirits in Worthing. They are an independent artisan gin distillery with a distinct affinity with knuckers, dragons and folklore. They do tours, tastings, cocktail masterclasses and have the occasional folklore evening.
If you can, coincide the end of your West Sussex food trail with a meal hosted by the Secret Sussex Supper Club. You’ll only find them on Instagram, and their tickets sell out fast, but they hold supper events in some fantastic venues like Architectural Plants and the Knepp Estate. At Knepp there is also a new farm shop where you can stock up on local produce and a bit more venison!
Bon Appetit
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