A walk through a thousand years of Sussex. This 11 km circular route walk via Fittleworth and Stopham may well become the Sussex Exclusive favourite walk of the year. Wander through peaceful woodland, visit an ancient village, cross two remarkable medieval bridges, follow the route of the old Wey & Arun Canal, admire one of England’s finest Norman churches and return beside the tranquil River Rother. Throw in a vineyard, a riverside pub and one of Sussex’s best village stores and you have all the ingredients for a brilliant walk.
Distance: 11 km
Terrain: Woodland paths, riverside tracks, bridleways, marshland paths and short stretches of road.
Parking: Near Fittleworth village shop and school (alternative parking at Hesworth Common).
Refreshments: The village shop in Fittleworth, Stopham Vineyard and the White Hart at Stopham Bridge.
Allow around 3½–4 hours for the walk itself, plus extra time to explore the churches, enjoy the historic villages and perhaps stop for refreshments at The White Hart or The Swan Inn.
Stage one: Fittleworth to Stopham
- Park considerately near the village hall and shop in Fittleworth, where parking is limited. From here, head just south of the school and village shop to find a footpath leading towards Fittleworth Common and Wood.
- The path skirts the edge of the wood before dipping into a beautiful stretch of woodland and a wonderfully cool and peaceful refuge on a warm summer’s day. Emerging from the woods, you’ll reach the A283.
- Cross the road with care. On the opposite side, the footpath divides. Bear right, following the path along the edge of Walters Plantation, until a small and quiet country lane brings you to Stopham. Distance so far: 1.6 km.
Stage two: Medieval Stopham
The tiny medieval settlement of Stopham was recorded in the Domesday Book in 1086, when it comprised just nine households and it has changed remarkably little over the centuries. Before reaching the village itself, you’ll pass the entrance to Stopham Vineyard. If time allows, it’s well worth arranging a tour or tasting in advance, adding a liquid diversion to your walk.
Beyond the vineyard lies St Mary’s Church, a peaceful Norman church watched over by one of Sussex’s finest ancient yew trees. A short stroll past the church and you can see Stopham Manor, set back from the lane and one of Sussex’s most fascinating historic houses. Although much of the present building dates from around 1485, a manor stood here long before, and over the centuries it has been enlarged, remodelled and adapted while remaining at the heart of village life.
Perhaps even more remarkable than the house itself is the family who live there. In 1379, the Barttelot family married into the Stopham family, and ever since then the manor has passed down through the same bloodline, albeit under a different surname. The family were later created baronets in 1875, and their long association with Stopham is reflected throughout the village, nowhere more so than in St Mary’s Church, where Barttelots are commemorated in a collection of medieval and later monumental brasses.
Stage three: Stopham Bridge
- From Stopham Manor, retrace your steps to the church before bearing left down the quiet lane.
- Within a few minutes you’ll reach the A283. Follow the pavement for a short distance until the impressive entrance to Stopham House comes into view.
- Here, leave the road and bear slightly left along a shaded footpath that leads through the trees to Stopham Bridge.
Grade I listed, Stopham Bridge is one of the finest surviving medieval bridges in Sussex. Multi-arched stone bridges are relatively rare and it is remarkably striking. The exact date of its construction remains something of a mystery. While the present bridge is undoubtedly medieval, historians continue to debate precisely when it was built, although a crossing is known to have existed here from at least the early 13th century.
For centuries, this was the principal crossing of the River Arun on the route between Petworth, Fittleworth and Pulborough. The bridge witnessed medieval merchants, Civil War soldiers and, later, the larger boats that navigated the Wey and Arun Canal, prompting the central arch to be raised in 1822. It also suffered damage during the Second World War before being relieved of modern traffic by the construction of the adjacent concrete bridge.
The newer bridge provides a good view point for photos and if you’re ready for a break, the White Hart sits beside the river with outdoor seating and a decking area overlooking the water. Total distance so far: 3 km.
Stage four: Wey South Path & Hardham Church
- From the White Hart, follow the quiet lane east until it rejoins the A283. Just ahead, on your right, you’ll find the Wey-South Path, which follows the route of the former Wey and Arun Canal.
- This peaceful section crosses open marshland before passing the remains of the disused canal, the River Rother and a pumping station.
- Once you’ve reached the River Rother, the path turns to track, but when the Wey-South Path turns hard right, continue straight ahead for a short but rewarding detour to one of Sussex’s greatest hidden treasures.
Soon you’ll arrive at the A29. Turn left and follow the pavement for a short distance until, on the opposite side of the road, you’ll spot a brown tourist sign for Hardham Church Medieval Wall Paintings. Cross carefully and follow the narrow lane to the church.
Tiny and unassuming from the outside, Hardham Church is home to one of the finest collections of medieval wall paintings in England. Its extraordinary 12th-century frescoes depict biblical scenes in vivid detail (although the colours are gradually fading) and are considered among the country’s most important examples of Norman church art. It’s a remarkable place, and well worth the short diversion before returning to continue the walk. Total distance so far: 4.4 km.
Stage five: Hardham to Greatham Bridge
- After exploring Hardham Church, retrace your steps to the A29. Turn back towards the Wey-South Path, passing the imposing gates of Hardham Priory. Although now a private home, the priory was founded in 1248 but disbanded as part of the Dissolution of the Monastries in 1534. While its surviving remains are hidden from the footpath, it’s worth pausing for a moment to appreciate another layer of the area’s rich history.
- Rejoin the Wey-South Path to your left and continue across the low-lying marshes. Depending on the season, this stretch can become quite overgrown, but the peaceful surroundings and abundant wildlife make the effort worthwhile. Eventually, the path emerges onto a quiet country lane.
- Turn left and follow the lane a few steps to Greatham Bridge, one of Sussex’s lesser-known medieval treasures.
Although the central span across the River Arun is now a later iron construction, much of the western section survives as a medieval stone bridge. Built in the late 13th century, probably around 1294, it was commissioned by Sir Henry Tregoz, whose family held the Manor of Greatham. Over the centuries the bridge has been repaired, altered and restored, but its elegant stone arches remain.
Like Stopham Bridge, Greatham was once a strategically important crossing of the River Arun and during the Civil War it became one of the key crossing points on the river. In 2021, a remarkable late 10th-century Anglo-Saxon gold and enamel ring was discovered nearby by a metal detectorist and at the nearby church, the bodies of Civil War soldiers were found in the 1950s. Total distance so far: 6.4 km.
Stage six: Coldwaltham and the Roman road
- Retrace your steps from Greatham Bridge back along the quiet lane, passing the point where you emerged fron the Wey-South Path. Continue for a short distance until you reach a footpath on your right.
- This path crosses the railway before leading into the village of Coldwaltham.
- From here, continue until you reach the A29 once more.
- Turn left and follow the pavement for a short distance until you see St Giles’ Church standing on the opposite side of the road. Cross with care and follow the lane beside the church.
Alongside its Norman architecture, Saxon font and rare 11th-century gravestone, St Giles’ Church is watched over by another of the county’s impressive ancient yew trees. Total distance so far: 7.5 km.
Stage seven: Coldwaltham and the River Rother
- Leaving St Giles’ Church and the main road behind, continue along the sleepy country lane, ignoring the bridleway that branches off to the left. Instead, bear gently right to the fork in the road, then take the left-hand lane.
- The route soon crosses the line of the old Roman road, Stane Street, before the track curves to the right and meets another quiet lane. Turn left and continue, crossing the route of the dismantled railway before arriving once more at the River Rother.
- Turn left and follow the riverbank until you reach the B2138, just south of Fittleworth.
- Turn right onto the road and head towards the village. Within a few minutes you’ll arrive at The Swan Inn, another historic stopping place and an ideal opportunity to pause before the final stretch of the walk.
The Swan has recently been beautifully refurbished, but its story stretches back more than six centuries. Believed to have been built in the late 14th century, the inn first appears in written records in 1536, when it was already serving as an important coaching stop. Royal couriers travelling between London and the south coast paused here to change horses, while generations of travellers found food, drink and shelter within its ancient walls.
The Swan has also welcomed some illustrious guests. Landscape artists including J. M. W. Turner and John Constable are said to have stayed here while exploring the Sussex countryside, while Edward Elgar also enjoyed the inn’s hospitality.
Stage eight: And home
- Leaving The Swan Inn on your left, continue up the road, ignoring Swan Lane on your right. A short distance later, take the second turning on your right, which leads you back towards the village hall and school, where the walk began.
- As you arrive back in Fittleworth, you’ll have completed a fascinating journey through nearly two thousand years of Sussex history, taking in Roman roads, medieval churches, ancient yew trees, historic manor houses, two remarkable river crossings and some of the county’s most beautiful riverside countryside.
Distance: 6.88 miles (11.1km)
Why we love this walk
From the cool shade of sweet chestnut woodland at Fittleworth Common to the peaceful banks of the River Rother, the landscape of this walk is constantly changing. One moment you’re crossing open marshland along the line of the old Wey and Arun Canal, the next you’re wandering through timeless villages or standing beneath one of Sussex’s ancient yew trees.
What makes this route truly exceptional, though, is its remarkable concentration of history. In just over 11 kilometres, you’ll encounter Roman Stane Street, Norman churches, medieval manor houses, two historic river bridges, one of England’s finest collections of medieval wall paintings, centuries-old inns and villages that have scarcely changed since they appeared in the Domesday Book. Few walks in Sussex can match such an extraordinary journey through the county’s past.
For me, this is Sussex at its very best: beautiful, diverse, endlessly fascinating and full of unexpected discoveries.
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