There is something about walking across an ancient landscape that is both melancholy and uplifting in equal measure. Throw in a couple of Medieval towns, three historic churches, the South Downs and a castle, and the Petworth Way is quite a walk.
The Petworth Way is an as yet unofficial trail from Haslemere to Arundel, via Petworth. It’s a fantastic alternative to the Midhurst Way. Having walked from Haslemere to Petworth (approximately 20km), with luck, you’ll have overnighted in Petworth before heading onwards. The walk from Petworth to Arundel is about 22 km. The first small section from Petworth is on Ordnance Survey Explorer 133 but most of the walk is Explorer 121.
Petworth to Barlavington
The first section of this walk is about 10 km. Set off from Petworth along the A272 towards Midhurst and look out for the gap in the hedge on your left, shortly after you leave the town. The South Downs are ahead of you in the distance but they feel a long way off.The footpath takes you straight across the fields towards the Downs, and then right to Rotherbridge Farm where you cross the river Rother. Then you just follow the lane until it meets the A285 at Heath End. You have a short bit of walking on the road (turn right) until you pick up the Serpent Trail on your left.
You’re only on the Serpent Trail for a short while, and soon you see Burton Park ahead. Burton Park is rather grand looking 19th century house and although it’s now privately owned flats, it’s also Grade I listed. The surrounding park was designed by both Capability Brown and Humphrey Repton. A short distance from the house is Burton Church, a tiny, 11th century church. Stop for a quick break here and go inside. There are a number of interesting features including an early 16th century painting on the wall of a female saint crucified upside down on a diagonal cross thought to be St Wilgefortis and the Royal Arms Painted on the wall (approximately 1636).
From here, you’re heading to Barlavington. The footpath takes you south (not via the Sussex Border Path) across the ponds and up the hill ahead. It’s the first hill of the day. At the top turn left, and at the road, turn left again across the fields. You cross the lane again and climb a narrow path passed a magnificent yew and on to Barlavington. The yew is one of the largest yews to be found outside of a churchyard or woodland setting. Its precise age is unknown but it could be one of the older yews in the county.
When you reach Barlavington, you’ve walked about 7 km so perhaps it’s a good time for your next break. In the churchyard, there is an old tree carved as a seat. The church itself is 12th century but was rebuilt in the 19th century. It’s simple, pleasant and has an interesting stone belfry.
Barlavington to Bignor
From Barlavington the footpath wiggles south east towards Sutton where you come on to the lane at The White Horse. If you haven’t had a break yet or fancy an early lunch, this is the only place on this walk where you can get something to eat or drink and have a comfort break. Alternatively, you might want to push on to Bignor. There is no cafe or restaurant at Bignor but it is just under half way at 10 km, and it’s the last stop before you tackle the Downs. Bignor church is your third Medieval church of the day and dates to the 11th and 13th centuries. It’s simple and attractive but although it has toilets, they were firmly locked at the time of our visit.
Bignor to Arundel
So far, the walk has been about country lanes, woodland paths and ancient villages, but all that is about to change. As you leave Bignor take one last look at The Yeoman’s House, a stunning Grade II listed Wealden House dating back to the 15th century which is available to let as a holiday home. You’ve now got about 12 km to go until you get to Arundel town centre.
Up the Downs
From Bignor, you take the small lane that leads directly up the Downs. It’s fantastically steep but you bear left at the second bend and after that, the chalky path takes you up a slightly less leg breaking gradient. And gradually, the county of Sussex beneath you starts to be revealed through breaks in the trees. It feels like you haven’t got far to go. Don’t be fooled.
Crossing the Downs
From here, you have options. You can follow the South Downs Way and then cut south just before you cross the A29 to Houghton Forest and Whiteways. From there you have to take a rather winding route via Houghton and and then down through Arundel Park and past the Hiorne Tower to the town. We didn’t go that way.
Where the footpath meets the South Downs Way, we turned right up a narrow, grassy and somewhat overgrown track which will take you to the crest of the Downs. As you round the crest, you will see layers of forested hills ahead of you and you get an idea of how far there is still to go. Of the three hills stretching into the distance, you have to conquer all three!Drop down the field to the start of the forest where a wooded climb will take you to the Monarch’s Way. You only follow this for a short distance before you bear right and carry on until you cross the A29. This a lovely wooded stretch and reasonably flat for a while.
Over the A29
Oh legs beware, you’ve walked about 15 km but now it’s time for some steps! Lots of steps as you climb the hill into Dalesdown Wood. It feels like you’ve been walking forever here, yet it still feels remote and far removed from civilisation. You get a real sense of what it must have been like in yesteryear for those people who travelled everywhere by foot. You pass through some attractive forest and head diagonally south east to The Waterwoods and the Watercress Beds just before the roundabout on the A27 west of Arundel.
With the promise of good coffee, wine and something to eat, Arundel is a welcome sight. You can stay here for a night and spend tomorrow exploring. Or jump on a train back home. The train station is a short walk south of the town and has main line services to London.
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