If you’ve been following our posts, you’ll know that over the last few months, I have been walking the Serpent Trail with Laura from Friends of the South Downs and Malinka from Rural Strides.
The Serpent Trail is a 106 km footpath from Haslemere (Surrey) to Petersfield (Hampshire) with most of the trail winding around Sussex. It’s within the South Downs National Park and we had decided to break it down into sections, walking once a month.
Rake to Lodsworth – practical details
This section is roughly 23.21 km. Elevation for the day was 621 metres and it took us just over five hours (moving time). It’s Ordnance Survey 133 but my older version didn’t have the Serpent Trail marked on it so check before you leave. We had cars parked just outside Rake off the London Road / B2020 (at approximately What3Words: professes.inhaled.mashing) and just north of Lodsworth at Leggatt Hill (What3Words: blubber.tilts.enforced). If you want a shorter walk, there is parking at Durfold Heath, Tullecombe, Woolbeding Common and road parking at Henley and Bexleyhill.
There was one pub on route, namely the Duke of Cumberland at Henley but that was a good two-thirds if not more into the day’s walk so pack your picnic and flask. On the whole, the Serpent Trail is well waymarked but there were points on this section where markers were missing or unclear.
Highlights
This is another stunning section of the trail and highlights have to be the many forests we walked through and Older Hill at Woolbeding Common. Once again, it was hard to believe that you’re only a short distance from civilization as we met very few people and it felt remote. The downside in places is that because this trail does snake back and forth, it’s easy to lose your bearings and at times, you realise you’re only a short distance from the path you walked several hours ago!
Rake to Tullecombe
At the start of this section, our band of three had swollen to 4.5 as we’d been joined by Lesley from Langham Brewery (Lodsworth) and her mighty warrior (if very small) dog, Rambo. From where we parked, you cross the main road, and you’re straight into woodland as you make your way through Coldharbour Wood and along Rake Hanger. This is ancient woodland that dates back to at least 1600 AD and a Site of Special Scientific Interest, and our guide Malinka was able to point out the ridge in the distance for which we were headed.
We had chosen another brilliantly cold day, but the sky was blue, the sun was shining and the ground was crisp underfoot. Through Combe Hill woods, past the Rogate bike park, and up Rogate Woods to Tullecombe you’re surrounded by glorious woodland, with towering pines through which the sun peeped. There are a couple of climbs but you’re rewarded with some open heathland and a beautiful sunny spot at Tullecombe for a first coffee break.
Tullecombe to Titty Hill
Leaving Tullecombe behind, there’s a little bit of road walking while you skirt around a property owned by Roman Abramovich before heading back into the woods. From here, there’s a mixture of different woodland but look out for the small graveyard at Iping Marsh. It used to be the site of the Church of the Good Shepherd (built in 1878 but demolished in 1982).
The site of the altar is marked by a memorial tablet, that commemorates those who died in two world wars. After that, look out for a totem pole as you approach the tiny hamlet of Titty Hill. We stopped at Titty Hill Farm which offers rather gorgeous luxury accommodation in the beautifully decorated Potager and Coop. The owner, Katie, had heard we were walking the Serpent Trail and was joining us for the next leg! So now we were five (and a half).
Titty Hill to Henley
Refuelled from lunch and with the sun at its zenith, the toughest climb of the day was ahead, up into Woolbeding Common to the trig point there. This was my first visit here and if you haven’t been, put it on your list. It is magnificent with panoramic views and a sense of complete tranquillity. It’s managed by the National Trust and worth a visit in its own right.
There are also two serpent sculptures here but they were slightly off our route. We missed them … but I went back.
From here we were headed to Henley, a pretty hamlet made up of only about 16 houses many of which date back to at least 1575. You’re within the Cowdray Estate now and we were headed to the Duke of Cumberland Arms which is a hopelessly pretty pub, and highly recommended for food. However, the sun was already dropping fast, and the warmth of the day had gone, so we knew it had to be a quick stop if we were to make it to Lodsworth before dark!
Henley to Lodsworth
It’s hard to know where the day goes on these walks. One minute it’s day break and you’re setting off and then before you know it, the sun is beginning to set. The last section of this walk was against that setting sun, but yet again, we walked through glorious pine forests where I half expected to meet the Gruffalo. From Bexleyhill, you catch the last of the epic views before you head into the final stretch of wood, followed by open fields and the waiting car at Leggatt Hill.
There is something about walking the Serpent Trail that feels both epic and also historic but is quite hard to explain. There is very little of the trail that isn’t beautifully quiet, completely unspoiled, and compellingly beautiful. Roll on to the next section.
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