Rye in East Sussex is just inland from the sea and has cobbled streets, ancient buildings and tales of smugglers. The town dates back to before the Norman invasion of 1066, when it was first a fishing village and then a port. Today, it has lofty views of Rye Harbour, wonderful independent shops, boutiques and restaurants, and oodles of charm.
A little history
Perched on a hill, it is hard to believe that Rye was once a small fishing village surrounded by water. The sea has long since retreated, but the town’s strategic position has both endured and given it a long and complex relationship with France. The wonderfully named Ethelred the Unready gave the Manor of Rameslie to the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy in the early 11th century. Later in 1205, Rye came under the ownership of the French and remained so until 1247.
It went on to become an important fortified town and part of the Confederation of Cinque Ports. Despite this, in 1377, it was attacked and ransacked by the French. In the centuries that followed, the town saw the arrival of hundreds of Huguenots fleeing from persecution, famous gangs of smugglers and pirates and great literary writers. All of which means it is a town with history etched in almost every brick and cobble.
Things to do
Whether you want to visit the museum, head to a festival, explore Lamb House or climb the church tower, there is plenty to see and things to do in Rye:
Set in such an evocative corner of East Sussex, there is plenty more to explore, once you have exhausted the town. Head out to see the tiny church on the marshes, visit historic Winchelsea or head to the beach for some bucket and spade fun.
Food and drink
Rye has a thriving food and drink scene, with everything from historic inns and cosy cafés to contemporary restaurants and fine dining. For a meal with a side helping of history, head to the Mermaid Inn, famous for its smugglers and ghosts, or enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of The George Grill at The George in Rye. Other popular choices include The Fig, known for its colourful, creative dishes, The Union, with its seasonal menus and focus on local produce, and Fletcher’s House, a historic restaurant and tearoom near St Mary’s Church. There’s also Landgate Bistro, Rye Bistro, and a whole host of independent cafés, pubs and restaurants tucked away along the town’s cobbled streets. For champagne, cocktails and live music, try The Grapevine Champagne & Jazz Bar, while a little further afield, Harry’s at The Gallivant near Camber Sands is well worth seeking out.
Pitts-Stop at Harry’s restaurant, The Gallivant at Camber Sands
Rye also knows how to celebrate its local produce. The annual Rye Bay Scallop Week is a highlight of the food calendar, celebrating locally caught scallops with special menus and events in restaurants across the town. September brings the Rye Harvest Wine & Food Fair, showcasing regional wines, sustainable producers and food from the surrounding area. Another interesting addition is the Gastronomic Promenades, which combine walking, food and wine, with a different course served at each stop along the route.
Wine lovers are particularly well catered for. Rye’s own urban winery offers local wines, craft beers and oysters, while the surrounding countryside is home to some exceptional vineyards. Tillingham, a biodynamic wine estate with a Michelin Green Star restaurant, is a destination in its own right. Nearby, you’ll find the gorgeous and family-run Charles Palmer Vineyards near Winchelsea, Oxney Organic Estate at Beckley, one of the UK’s largest organic vineyards and Oastbrook.
Rye walks and bike rides
You have a great deal of choice if you are looking for local Rye walks, bike rides or even a long distance trail or two. There are beach strolls, long distance trails, harbour walks and historic meanders.
Itineraries
Perhaps you passion is history, or maybe you want to discover the region’s wine or just explore the fascinating area in and around Rye. Whatever your interests, why not try one of these three itineraries and use Rye town as your base for exploring:
Literary Rye: In the Footsteps of Henry James, E. F. Benson and Rumer Godden
Places to Stay
There are some wonderfully quirky and unusual places to stay in and around Rye. From old oast houses to a windmill and the famously haunted Mermaid Inn, take your pick.
Living in Rye
Rye is a beautiful place to live, with its historic architecture, cobbled streets, literary heritage and wonderful position between the Sussex countryside and coast. It has a thriving community, a strong cultural scene and an appealing collection of independent shops, galleries, bookshops, antique shops, cafés and restaurants.
The Kino cinema, right in the heart of town, has three screens and a bar, showing everything from the latest films to live screenings of ballet and opera. For everyday essentials, Rye has a Jempson’s supermarket near the railway station, pharmacies, a petrol station, library, leisure centre, weekly markets and a good range of local services.
There are nurseries, primary schools and Rye College for secondary education, with independent schools including Vinehall and Marlborough House further afield. Rye also has a railway station, with connections via Ashford International for high-speed services to London St Pancras, although connections don’t always align conveniently.
Of course, living somewhere as picturesque as Rye comes with a few compromises. Property is unlikely to be among the cheapest in Sussex, particularly in the historic centre, where listed buildings and conservation restrictions can make alterations and maintenance more complicated.
You’ll also need to be comfortable negotiating steep hills, narrow streets and uneven cobbled pavements, not to mention the influx of visitors during the summer months.
Out of season, however, Rye has a very different, quieter character. For those who prefer a little more space or tranquillity, nearby Rye Harbour, Winchelsea and the surrounding villages offer alternatives. Ultimately, Rye offers a wonderful quality of life for anyone who loves history, independent businesses, a lively cultural scene and easy access to some of Sussex’s most beautiful landscapes. You just need to embrace its quirks and accept that living in one of Sussex’s prettiest towns comes at a price.
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