The 1066 Trail ©: Normandy & the Normans
For Sussex readers, Normandy feels oddly familiar. Chalk landscapes along the coast, ancient churches and rolling green countryside. Beyond its natural beauty, Normandy is famous for its cheeses, its Calvados, its Impressionist art, the role it played in WWII, its pretty ports and harbours, its Medieval abbeys and, of course, for its connection to the story of 1066.
But in order to really understand William the Conqueror and the events that unfolded that year, you have to understand at least a little bit about the Normans. Following the fall of Rome, the area which we now think of as Normandy was repeatedly raided by Vikings travelling up the Seine. These men from the north, or Norsemen, burnt, pillaged and murdered. By the late ninth century, the mighty warrior Rollo was at the helm of these attacks.
In 911, Carolingian King Charles III agreed the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte with Rollo, giving him land (the land of the Norsemen or Normandy). In return, Rollo agreed to end his attacks, swore fealty to the French King, converted to Christianity, and was baptised with the name Robert. In short, Rollo became the founder of what was to become one of the most powerful states in northern France and, eventually, in Europe; the Duchy of Normandy.
Rollo was also William the Conqueror’s great-great-great-grandfather, William being the illegitimate son of Robert I, Duke of Normandy. So, to begin to understand the enigma that was William, you really need to understand his ancestry and explore the region of not just his birth but of his formative years and his later power. This five day itinerary (which is part out our Sussex Exclusive 1066 Trail ©, takes you to the places behind the people and stories that changed history.
Day 1. Falaise: Where it all began
Arrive by ferry in Ouistreham on the ciast of Normandy, and head south to Falaise, in the Calvados department. It’s a small town, but the epicentre and beginning of our 1066 story.
Dominating the town and the landscape from a rocky outcrop is Falaise Castle, one of the most significant Norman castles in Normandy and birthplace of William the Conqueror.
Although the castle itself has subsequently been rebuilt and enlarged (in part by William’s son), it doesn’t prevent you absorbing some of what went into making the man. It is remote, but impressive and heavily fortified. The Normandy landcape is laid out before you and you are walking where William took his first steps, shared his first meals, looked out on the land beyond and experienced those first traumantic events of his life that undoubtedly shaped him.
William was the son of Duke Robert I of Normandy and Robert’s mistress Herleva of Falaise. Robert died when William was about seven or eight, and despite being illegitimate, as Robert’s only son, William became Duke of Normandy. Normandy was one of the most powerful and influential states in medieval Europe. After Robert’s death, William’s life was turbulent and dangerous. Attempts were made on his life and the stability of Normandy hung in the balance. It wasn’t until 1047 and 1060 that William began to restore power and control.
There are interactive touchscreen within the castle itself which help reveal the story of the castle and its many different inhabitants and look out for the magnificent statue in the town square.
When you have explored the castle, head on to Rouen for your first night.
Day 2. Rouen: Capital of Norman power
Rouen feels, at first glance, like a slightly less obvious stop on a William the Conqueror itinerary. Falaise gave him birth, Caen became his chosen seat of power and Sussex shaped his destiny. Yet if you want to understand the story of the Normans, and the world that eventually produced 1066, Rouen is essential.
This was the cradle of the Duchy of Normandy, the city where Viking leader Rollo established his power after the Treaty of Saint-Clair-sur-Epte, transforming raiders into rulers and laying the foundations for one of medieval Europe’s most remarkable dynasties. The city remained the early capital of Normandy and one of the great centres of Anglo-Norman life, with William frequently holding court here before later shifting his focus to Caen. He died not far from the city after a riding accident although he is buried in Caen.
A Day in Rouen: Walking through the Duchy of Normandy
Allow at least a full day for Rouen. There is a lot to explore and Rouen’s story stretches far beyond William.
Rouen Cathedral
Begin at Rouen Cathedral, because Norman history starts here. Rollo, the Viking founder of Normandy, was buried here, while centuries later the preserved heart of Richard the Lionheart also found its resting place inside the cathedral.
William himself attended the cathedral’s Romanesque consecration in 1063, only a few years before setting sail for England. If you are going to visit sites such as the abbey ruins at Jumièges or later Norman cathedrals in England, there are echoes and similarities everywhere. In short, the extraordinary cathedral is a central piece of the Norman architectural puzzle.
Cité Immersive Viking
From here, immerse yourself fully in Normandy’s origins with the Viking immersive experience just south of the river. It helps bridge the gap between the Norse raiders who arrived on these shores and the sophisticated duchy they eventually created. Understanding Rollo and the Viking inheritance gives far greater context to William’s world and some of the personality traits he seems to have inherited.
Rouen’s Norman castles
Rouen offers two quick castle stops for your itinerary. The quickest is the remains of the Tour Jeanne d’Arc, the surviving tower of Rouen Castle and one of the few remnants left from the medieval fortress. It does not take long to visit, but standing beside it offers a reminder of how power shifted after the Norman period. If time allows, venture beyond the city to the ruins of Château de Robert le Diable overlooking the Seine although check whether it is open first. It is not directly connected to William, although some say Robert le Diable was William’s father.
In between these key sites, leave space simply to wander. Drift through medieval lanes lined with extraordinary timber-framed buildings, pause in the old marketplace where the story of Joan of Arc still lingers, step into hidden courtyards and cafés and allow yourself to get a little lost. William may have brought you here, but Rouen quickly expands beyond him. Send your second night here so that you can continue to soak up some of the Rouen atmosphere.
Day 3. Jumièges Abbey and Fecamp: Planning and celebrating the conquest
Jumièges Abbey
Founded in 654, destroyed by Vikings and later scarred by war and revolution, Jumièges Abbey nevertheless became one of Normandy’s greatest monasteries. In 1067, just a year after Hastings, William returned as the newly crowned King of England to preside over the grand consecration of its new church. Fresh from victory, this was more than a religious ceremony; it was a statement of power. New, ambitious and richly endowed, Jumièges was a Norman status symbol a place designed to proclaim success.
Jumièges was also home to one of the most important chroniclers of the Norman world: William of Jumièges. A Benedictine monk at the abbey, he wrote the Gesta Normannorum Ducum (Deeds of the Dukes of Normandy), tracing the story of Norman rulers from their Viking origins through to William’s conquest of England. Writing in the years around 1066 and dedicating his work to William the Conqueror himself, he helped shape the Norman version of events, presenting the invasion not as conquest, but as a rightful claim to a promised throne. Much of what we know about the time stems from William the writer, even if it is importnat to view it through his very pro Norman lens.
Though it now stands in ruins, the abbey remains magnificent, shimmering white and regal. The quiet and birdsong is a stark contrast to the buzzy city of Rouen, and it is not hard to imagine, William striding through the halls, flushed with power and kudos. It’s also not hard to imagine the other William, scribbling away in a quiet corner of the abbey about the amazing events that were unfolding around him.
Fécamp
Next, head to Fécamp. About 45 minutes to an hour north west of Jumiège, Fécamp is on Normandy’s dramatic Alabaster Coast, surrounded by what feel like vaguely familiar white cliffs. During the reigns of English kings including Æthelred and later Edward the Confessor, the abbey at Fécamp amassed significant holdings in Sussex. These included estates at Steyning in West Sussex and Rameslie, an important manor that encompassed Rye and its harbour. The abbey also held rights connected to Winchelsea and Bury. Edward the Confessor himself had strong ties to Normandy through his years of exile, and Fécamp benefited from those connections.
In 1054, Abbot John travelled from Fécamp to England to inspect the abbey’s estates and possessions. That means that, more than a decade before the events of 1066, people from Fécamp already knew Sussex. They understood its coastline, communities, ports and strategic importance. 
The abbey was one of the great religious institutions of Normandy and Fécamp was an important centre of power for the Dukes of Normandy: Richard I and Richard II were buried here. William had spent time here in his youth and visited many times. It is entirely possible that conversations around Sussex, its geography, political tensions and opportunities, took place within these walls long before William sailed with the abbey providing vital intelligence as well as ships.
And after the invasion, William did not forget Fécamp. At Easter in 1067, he returned here to celebrate his victory with a grand feast and in gratitude for support received, he confirmed and expanded many of the abbey’s English holdings, restoring estates and strengthening its position across the Channel. Sussex and Normandy, already closely connected before Hastings, became even more tightly woven together afterwards.
One of Fécamp’s most surprising buildings is the extraordinary Palais Bénédictine, part distillery, part museum, part neo-Gothic fantasy. Built in the nineteenth century to house the production of the famous herbal liqueur Bénédictine, it rises from the town in a riot of turrets, arches and elaborate detail, looking more like a château dreamt up by an eccentric collector than a drinks factory. Inside, alongside the history of the liqueur itself, are collections, galleries and archives that reveal another side of Fécamp’s story.
Tucked within are documents that have been signed by William himself. Standing a few inches away from pieces of parchment linked directly to William feels strangely moving. We often imagine history through castles and battlefields, but these fragile documents are reminders that power also lived in records, promises, grants and carefully preserved words. In a town already bound so tightly to Sussex and to William’s story, discovering them in Fécamp felt less like chance and more like another thread in the tapestry.
Day 4. Saint Valery, Dives sur Mer & Bayeux: Points of departure & the tapestry
By now you have traced William’s beginnings at Falaise, explored the centres of Norman power and walked in William’s footsteps post conquest, so day 4 offers choices. Depending on whether you want to follow William’s final departure route, seek out one of Normandy’s pretty coastal towns or immerse yourself in the story of 1066 itself, there are several compelling directions to take.
Saint-Valery-sur-Somme
For those determined to follow William’s journey as closely as possible, head north from Fécamp along the coast to Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. It was here that William and his vast fleet finally waited for favourable winds before setting sail for England. Historical accounts suggest his forces remained there for a couple of weeks. Today, Saint-Valery-sur-Somme is a charming and atmospheric town of colourful houses, medieval streets and waterside views. Sadly, there is no great and significant marker showing the spot from which William set sail but it is thought provoking, standing on the shore, looking up the estuary towards the sea and trying to imagine hundreds, if not thousands of ships setting sail.
Dives sur Mer
Alternatively, if you do not fancy travelling north, head south to Dives sur Mer. This was William’s original departure point before weather and tides forced the fleet further along the coast to Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. Today it remains a handsome seaside town with a long maritime history, colourful harbours and plenty to explore. And again, although there is no definitive spot marked out as his place of departure, there is something rather satisfying about standing on the coast here and imagining the uncertainty of those final days: ships gathered, weather watched anxiously and an invasion force preparing to cross into the unknown.
Bayeux
Or perhaps your final stop should be Bayeux. Bayeux is home to the world-famous Bayeux Tapestry, the extraordinary 68-metre embroidered masterpiece depicting the events surrounding the Norman Conquest. While the tapestry is due to travel to the UK in 2026, Bayeux remains deeply woven into the story of William and his legacy. The city is also home to the magnificent Bayeux Cathedral, consecrated in 1077 and blending Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
Day 5. Caen: William’s Legacy and Final Chapter
Caen is an emotive end to your journey. William transformed Caen into one of the great centres of his realm, building a vast castle and two monumental abbeys that still dominate the city today. Standing within the sprawling grounds of Caen Castle, you gain a real sense of Norman ambition and authority. It is large, layered and complex, expanded over generations and developed further by William’s son, Henry I. It feels less like a simple fortress and more like a city within walls; a statement of power, permanence and stability. And of course, Caen also feels very different from Sussex and the intimate lanes of Hastings Old Town or the quiet corners of Pevensey.
The most moving moments, however, come in William and Matilda’s abbeys. William founded the men’s abbey, the Abbaye aux Hommes, while Matilda founded the women’s abbey, the Abbaye aux Dames. Vast and architecturally magnificent, they possess an unexpected simplicity. On the quiet morning of my visit, they felt humble, not overflowing with decoration or spectacle, but calm and contemplative. And perhaps that is why William’s tomb feels so affecting. After days spent tracing invasion routes, castles and battlefields, here you don’t just find William the conqueror, strategist or king, but William the man, finally at rest. In the silence of the abbey, take a moment or two to reflect and in that moment, you may just feel a powerful connection to both the man and the past.
Logistics
Places to stay
- Hotel Campanile Prime Caen Centre Gare: Just south of the river and not far from the Vaugueux District: https://caen-centre-gare.campanile.com/en-us/
- Mercure Rouen Centre Cathédrale: Ideally placed right in the heart of the old town: https://mercurerouencentrecathedrale.com-hotel.com/
Travel
Brittany Ferries runs services between Caen (Ouistreham) and Portsmouth, including overnight services. DFDS run shorter crossings between Dieppe and Newhaven, just an hour north of Fécamp.
Recommended travel route: Overnight ferry to Caen and early evening ferry home from Dieppe back to the UK.
To book or for more information, visit:
and Brittany Ferries
For more information: https://en.normandie-tourisme.fr/
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