Distance: 15 km. Elevation: 100 m. Difficulty: Medium
The Shoreham to Eastbourne section opened in 2022. This walk from Seaford to Peacehaven is a small section of it.
A walk of three halves
I parked up in Seaford and started from outside their sailing club on the seafront (there’s a coffee trailer nearby which may have influenced my choice of parking). However, you can also park at Tide Mills (just before Seaford as you’re travelling from Newhaven on the A259). Again, from this car park, just head to the seafront. There are signs for the coastal path when you get to the seafront.
Seaford to Newhaven
Seaford Bay and the stretch of shingle beach between Newhaven and Seaford is fabulous. Early on a Sunday morning, all you can hear is the gentle lap of the sea, the call of the birds, and the occasional purr of a small boat heading out to sea. There is sea kale scattered everywhere and there are also helpful information boards with details of other wildlife you might spot. Ahead, are the curves of Newhaven Port and lighthouse jutting into the water and set against a blue sky and a millpond sea, it was looking pretty romantic.
As you walk from Seaford, you pass curious-looking ruins. This is Tide Mills, a derelict village which is well worth a visit. Just ahead is Newhaven Port Nature Reserve and towards the sea, you can see the footings of a WWI seaplane station. This stretch of your walk is completely flat and only about 1.5 km. You’re also just a short walk away from the beautiful garden at Driftwood by Sea, a stunning local NGS garden where you can be sure of a cup of tea and a piece of cake if you visit in the summer.
Your tour of Newhaven
Don’t get me wrong, I like Newhaven but the next stretch of the walk is not the best. As you arrive at a fence with Newhaven in front of you, you turn right away from the sea. The walk now takes you on a 3 km detour by which you travel inland and upstream to cross the River Ouse via the town’s swing bridge and then back down West Quay, alongside the edge of the harbour, around the marina to the foot of Newhaven Fort.
A great debate ensued in my house as to what, if anything, could be done to improve this stretch of the walk. The West Quay side of the walk isn’t too bad, as you have the marina and boat life to absorb, but east of the river, and you pretty much walk through an industrial estate. There are various points where signage would be very useful but was either notably absent, just plain confusing or darn right ridiculous!
I was mighty glad to reach Newhaven Fort. Personally, as a significant tourist attraction for Sussex, a little bit of thought as to how to make this section more attractive would go a long way. In fact (I know, I am very grumpy about this) a quick look at an Ordnance Survey shows that there is indeed a footpath that takes you around the edge of the Ouse Estuary Nature Reserve, and although I didn’t go this way, I was left feeling it had to be better than round the back of the warehouses. I’ll stop moaning now.
Newhaven to Peacehaven
A steepish climb takes you up past Newhaven Fort and on to Castle Hill. Castle Hill has a history that dates back to the Neolithic Period. There was a hill fort there at some stage between the late Bronze Age and Iron Age and later, a Roman encampment. Again, there’s an information board with details of various finds dating back to the Neolithic period and the views are fantastic.
The next stretch of the walk is absolutely stunning and the views are worth every footstep of the back streets of Newhaven. Beneath you are the walls of the harbour and ahead is the sea, and a chalky, grass path along the cliff tops. There are wildflowers, birdsong, and the gentle wash of the sea, and although by now it was late morning, it wasn’t busy. The path undulates along for about 2.5 km, with each rise and fall tempting you to walk a little further to see what view will appear over the brow. Eventually, however, you see Peacehaven beneath you and Brighton and the i360 in the distance ahead. It is a delightfully unspoilt stretch of coast with a sense of the magnificent, and you won’t want to stop.
The trouble with the England Coast Paths is …
At some point, you have to turn back! I turned around at Chene Gap just ahead of Peacheaven Heights although I could have got a bus back from Peacehaven. Retracing your steps, the views are different with Seaford Head standing proud in the distance. There is an alternative, longer route back via the Peacehaven Golf Course and through the Ouse Valley Nature Reserve (marked on the map). This lengthens the walk to 19.5 km.
By the time I got back to Newhaven Fort, the Seaford Sailing Club were out on the water in the bay ahead like wispy and whimsical feathers. But at this point, you just have a slight sense of frustration when you can see the path on the east side of the harbour just a short distance away but know you now have a long detour around the town to get there. Oh for a quick ferry across the harbour.
From Newhaven Fort, it’s a case of retracing your steps back to the start. I’m not often a fan of out-and-back walks and do prefer a loop, but it’s also wonderful to be right on the coast. If you’re in the area or liked this Sussex Coast Path walk, you may also like:
