At first glance, Seaford feels every inch the modern seaside town. Independent shops, cafés and wide sweep of beach speak more of contemporary coastal life than ancient history. But look a little closer and a very different story begins to emerge.
People have lived here for thousands of years. Evidence of Stone Age settlement has been discovered in the area, while Seaford Head was once home to an Iron Age hill fort. The Romans left their mark too, with a burial ground discovered on what is now Seaford Head Golf Course, and the Saxons were known to have settled here long before the Norman Conquest.
By the early 13th century, Seaford had become an important member of the Cinque Ports Confederation. The Cinque Ports were a group of coastal towns that supplied ships and men to the Crown in return for valuable trading privileges and freedoms. Although the original five ports were Hastings, New Romney, Hythe, Dover and Sandwich, Seaford later became one of the associated ‘limb’ ports attached to Hastings, helping to support England’s maritime defences and trade. And because Seaford was a Cinque Port, in 1298 it was granted the right to send two Members to Parliament giving it great influence on the political and social scene.
The landscape is ever-changing around Seaford. The River Ouse used to meet the sea at Seaford, but by the 16th century it was silting up, and a “new cut” was made to divert it to Newhaven in about 1539. Meanwhile, Seaford Head is highly vulnerable to coastal erosion and climate change, losing an average of 50 centimetres annually.
Today, Seaford occupies one of the most enviable positions on the Sussex coast. Just south of the South Downs and spread along the curve of Seaford Bay, it is also just west of Cuckmere Haven and beneath the dramatic chalk cliffs of Seaford Head. A railway station links it to London and the surrounding countryside makes it a popular destination for walkers, cyclists and day-trippers.
Spend a little time exploring and you’ll discover that Seaford’s history is woven quietly into the fabric of the town. A turn down an alleyway may lead you from the modern high street to a far older streetscape. Historic buildings appear unexpectedly between newer developments. The magnificent church of St Leonard’s stands as a reminder of centuries past, while subtle nods to Seaford’s maritime heritage can be found throughout the town.
And if you are looking for things to do in Seaford, you have plenty of choice:
Seaford Heritage Trails
A good starting point for any exploring in Seaford is with one of the town’s Heritage Trails. There are noticeboards in the town and a website that have details, but the trails include:
- The Heritage Trail: a walking tour of the town.
- The Blue Plaque Trail: this does what it says on the tin.
- The Seaford Bay Exercise Path: a 5 mile walk along the bay and promenade.
- The Eric Slater Trail: via Seaford Head and inspired by the painter Eric Slater.
- The Poppy Trail: inspired by WWI history.
Things to look out for
Whether you follow a trail, or just go on a meander, there are lots of interesting buildings and plaques to look out for:
Corsica House
Originally built near Ringmer in about 1740, the owner, John Whitfield, was involved in smuggling Corsican wine. He decided to present some to King George II, and as a result, successfully escaped legal consequences. And that’s where the name of this building comes from. It was moved from Ringmer, brick by brick, between 1784 and 1786 and in 1884, became the home of the school, Seaford College, which later relocated to near Petworth. These days, it stands proud just back from the beach and is private housing.
St Leonard’s Church
The church is in the centre of town, and is believed to date from the 11th century, making it the oldest building in Seaford. Like the town, the church’s fortunes have fluctuated over the centuries and having fallen into disrepair, it was rebuilt in the 15th century. Unfortunately, it is not kept open all the time, but if it is open when you visit, head in and admire the stained glass window and organ.
Seaford Museum and the Martello Tower
Seaford has a Martello Tower (number 74) built in 1810. It’s had a chequered past and was sold by the War Office in 1880. In 1910 it was sold again and became a tea room and roller skating rink. The tower was restored in the 1970s and The Seaford Museum of Local History now The Seaford Museum and Heritage Society moved in 1979. They hold various events and talks here but it’s also apparently packed with town memorabilia from different eras.
Fitzgerald Almshouses
Squeezed into Croft Lane, the Almshouses have impressive chimneys and a castellated tower. Built in 1864 to provide care for the “labouring poor of good character”, Fitzgerald was also once the owner of Corsica Hall.
The Crypt
The Crypt is now a community art centre, but is housed in a 13th century medieval flint and stone undercroft, the lower part of a two storey house which was used as a merchant’s store. It is the oldest the oldest secular building in Seaford and entry to the various and ongoing exhibitions is free.
The Crouch
Crouch Gardens, aka the Crouch, was the site of a medieval market until 1712. Today, enter through a gate in the ancient wall and you’ll find a peaceful garden. There is also a Peace Garden built by the Quakers.
Stone’s House
Dating from 1767, legend has it that this building was once linked to the church by an underground passage. Tennyson is said to have written his Ode to the Duke of Wellington next door at Seaford House (demolished).
The Arts in Seaford
If you want a little creativity, your first stop should be The Crypt, followed by Gallery Uno which is home to the Sussex Arts Collective and provides an exhibition space for members. Then visit Sussex Art Prints for evocative prints of the area and search out The Barn Theatre.
A little bit of shopping
If you fancy a bit of shopping, there are some interesting boutiques and independents that are worth a visit:
Splash Point and the hotel ruins
Walk east from the Martello Tower and you come to Splash Point. It’s an area of sea defence which gives wonderful views of the cliffs rising ahead of you and the shoreline as it stretches east. You’ll also find The Shoal here. This is a community bench complete with memorials … and lots of fish! It’s rather evocative.
Above you, rises the cliff and what looks like the ruins of a fort. In fact, this was once Cliff Cottage, built in about 1897 as a seaside retreat for a wealthy London family. In due course, it became a “friendship” hotel (hmmm) and then a cookhouse in WWII. All that remains now are the rather enigmatic ruins on the side of the cliff.
Seaford Head Nature Reserve
Seaford Head Nature Reserve stretches from the town towards the Cuckmere Valley. It’s the place to go for fabulous views and great walks, but please, stay well away from the edge because this coast line is fragile.
You have various options here which include parking on Seaford Head and walking down past the famous coastguard cottages with views of the Seven Sisters cliffs. From there, descend to the mouth of the Cuckmere, you can walk along the river which is simply teeming with birdlife. As you approach Exceat Bridge, you also come to a section of route 2 of the National Cycle Network (which runs all the way from Dover to St Austell).
Alternatively, if you’re visiting Splash Point, keep walking up (and it really is up, up, up) the coastal path, past the ruins of the old red brick house and the golf course. Look out for the WWII pillbox in the distance and then keep going all the way to Seaford Head. Or just turn back when you’ve had enough.
We Hear You Now
Look out for the We Hear You Now plaques and QR codes. This is as a series of 13 listening points on benches, gates or signposts, found between Seaford and Beachy Head. The series is a collection of stories and poetry that reflects the history, topography and biodiversity of the area, written and voiced by nine Sussex-based writers and poets. There are two on the path as you climb up the cliffs from Splash Point.
Seaford walks
If you are looking for more inspiration when it comes to Seaford walks, try some of these for size:
Coastguard Cottages
These iconic and much photographed cottages are in between Seaford and Cuckmere Haven. They are occasionally open to the public.
Golf and gentle water sports
If rambling isn’t for you, you could play a round of golf at the Seaford Head Golf Course or head to the visitor centre at Exceat Bridge (Seven Sisters Country Park). From here, you can try kayaking or canoeing along the stunning and curvaceous Cuckmere River. Or make your way east into Friston Forest for some cycling.
The abandoned village of Tide Mills
Just to the west of the town, and a pleasant walk along the coastal path (also Vanguard Way) is the abandoned village of Tide Mills. As the name suggests, this was once a bustling mill village, with its own railway siding but the mill closed in 1883 and the last residents had to move out in 1939. It also saw race horses, scandal and children from Chailey Heritage!
The Seafood foodie experience
There are a number of great local producers. Just north of Seaford, Rathfinny Wine Estate is a large and prestigious local vineyard where they offer a number of different experiences as well as tastings. Long Man Brewery, north east of Seaford also offer tours and tastings whilst Harley House Distillery in the heart of Seaford, doesn’t offer tours yet but are a local brand to look out for with its range of craft spirits. There’s also a twice-monthly market in Seaford itself as well as lots and lots of little cafés and eateries in the town.
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