Alfriston in East Sussex has a reputation for being one of the prettiest villages in England. It sits on the South Downs Way, is in the Cuckmere valley, and is surrounded by idyllic countryside.
With a little high street lined with Medieval buildings and more smugglers’ tales than you can shake a stick at, it’s a rich pocket of Sussex history which will take you from Neolithic man to Dutch sailors and German bombers.
Pilgrims and clergy
Alfriston is mentioned in the Domesday Book but there’s evidence that man was in these parts long before then with several Neolithic long barrows in the surrounding hills. The Star Inn is a central point of the village and it dates back to 1345. It was originally an inn for monks and pilgrims en route from Battle Abbey to Chichester Cathedral, but it’s been an inn since the 16th century.
These days, it is owned by Alex Polizzi and her mother, and has a reputation for serving great food. Alex occasionally hosts walks in the area. Outside is the head of a lion which was once a ship’s figurehead and comes with quite a backstory!
The Clergy House
On the village green or Tye, you’ll find the Clergy House. It’s a National Trust property and is an example of an early 15th-century Wealden hall-house. There is also a cottage garden with Arts and Crafts style ‘garden rooms’. The house was home to Alfriston’s parish priest until Michelham Priory was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1537. Then it was granted to Thomas Cromwell and later became part of the estate of Anne of Cleeves. After her death in 1557, it became the property of the Church of England until it was sold to the National Trust in 1896.
Next to the Clergy House is St Andrew’s Church which was built in the 1370s and is also sometimes known as the ‘Cathedral of the Downs’ due to its size. It’s one of the churches on the Cuckmere Pilgrim Path.
Smugglers
The George Inn on the opposite side of the road to The Star dates back to 1250 and it was first licensed in 1397. It comes with a network of underground smugglers tunnels and a 16th century painting. Just up the road from The Star, is Ye Olde Smugglers Inne said to be the early 19th century headquarters of Stanton Collins and his gang of smugglers. It partially dates from 1358 and comes with stories of ghosts .
WWII mines!
On the 29 October 1943, an enemy sea mine was discovered in the River Cuckmere near the church. You can now see it on display on the green.
Books, books and more books
Much Ado Books is an award winning book shop in the square. Lose yourself in its many pages, hang out in their courtyard, sink into an armchair and browse their shepherds hut. Then pop into the nearby village shop for a trip down memory lane. A shop has been on the site since 1406 but the picture postcard bowed windows were installed in the 18th century. Apart from having a wonderful selection of local cheese, meats, jams, jellies, pastries and other produce, inside it has the original 1891 counter and shop fittings.
A little luxury and wine
Just as you leave the village heading south, you’ll see Dean’s Place Hotel on the corner. Built in the early 17th century or possibly earlier, it’s had a number of important owners but is now a luxury hotel and restaurant. It’s closed for refurbishment in 2024. But if you are desperately in need of some luxury, head further down the road to Rathfinny vineyard which has outstanding tasting rooms, fabulous cottage accommodation, a restaurant, a summer open air kitchen and views across the vines and Downs towards the sea.
Shopping and eating
As you might expect, there are a number of little independent shops and galleries in Alfriston which include antique shops, art, home accessories and gifts. Peruse what you’ve bought with a slice of cake and a cuppa at the Singing Kettle where you can sit outside in the square.
Walks
Anywhere on the South Downs Way opens up a world of walking potential and you can head west towards Firle or east along the banks of the river and on to the White Horse chalk carving. You’re also not far from the Long Man at Wilmington, the brewery by the same name, the smallest church in the county and of course, the Seven Sisters Country Park.
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