Steyning is a historic town in West Sussex, sitting right at the foot of the South Downs and not far from the coast. But it’s also a slightly bohemian town, with a lively food and drink scene, fabulous local walks, some great independent shops and a stack of interesting history.
A little bit of Steyning history
Steyning has its foundations in the Anglo-Saxon period, and its history is closely entwined with one of Sussex’s more unusual legends. The story begins in the 8th century with a shepherd (Cuthman) who is said to have cared for his disabled mother by pushing her around Sussex in a wheelbarrow. According to legend, he used a rope around his neck to help pull the cart and vowed that wherever the rope finally broke, he would settle. Eventually, the rope broke for the final time at Steyning. Taking this as a sign, Cuthman settled and built a wooden church.
A thriving port
One of the most extraordinary things about Steyning is that it was once a thriving port. In Anglo-Saxon times, the River Adur formed a broad, navigable tidal estuary, and ships sailed inland to what became known as St Cuthman’s Port. Steyning became an important trading centre, exporting a variety of goods. The harbour is believed to have been somewhere near the present-day St Andrew and St Cuthman’s Church.
Look at a modern map of Steyning and nearby Bramber, and you can see the River Adur winding its way north from the coast, passing between Bramber and Upper Beeding. But from the river crossing at Bramber, it’s roughly a mile to Steyning and it’s hard to imagine a busy port.
Cue the Normans
In 1047, Edward the Confessor granted the church and manor at Steyning to the Benedictine Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy. Earl Godwin, father of King Harold, subsequently reclaimed the estate, but following Harold’s defeat at Hastings in 1066, it was restored to the abbey. William the Conqueror confirmed the grant in 1085.
The present St Andrew and St Cuthman’s Church was begun in the late 11th century on or near the site of Cuthman’s original wooden church. Its impressive Norman architecture and intricate carvings are a reminder of Steyning’s former importance, while the ruins of nearby Bramber Castle provide another important link to the Norman period.
Over the following centuries, however, Steyning’s fortunes began to change. The gradual silting up of the River Adur, the development of a rival port at Shoreham and the recession of the tidal waters all contributed to the harbour’s decline. By around 1350, Steyning had ceased to function as a port. The Black Death, which reached Sussex in 1348, dealt another devastating blow to the population. By the 18th century, Steyning had become an important stopping point on the coaching routes through Sussex. Two historic inns, the White Horse and the Chequer Inn, are reminders of that period.
Today, reminders of the town’s long and varied history are everywhere, from the magnificent Norman church and historic buildings lining its streets to Penn’s House, where the Quaker William Penn is said to have preached. Even King Charles II is believed to have passed through Steyning while fleeing to France following his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651.
Things to do in Steyning
Head to Steyning if you want to explore a bit of Sussex history and enjoy great architecture, or if you are looking for independent shops, fabulous food and great walks.
Food and drink
Still home to a good handful of pubs and plenty of eateries, Steyning is a good place to stop if you are hungry. It’s also got an Italian restaurant, Indian, fish and chips, a number of cafés and a bakers. In the wider area, you’ll also find Chalk Restaurant at Wiston which gets a mention in the Michelin Guide and does vineyard tours and tastings, as well as the excellent Artisan Bakehouse, where you can learn to bake your own bread.
But perhaps Steyning is most famous on the foodie scene these days for its annual Food and Drink Festival.
Take a walk
Steyning sits at the epicentre of great Sussex walking. With access pretty much straight onto and up the South Downs as well as river side walks and flat walking aplenty, make it your base if you want to explore by foot.
Itineraries
Base yourself in Steyning and explore the surrounding area. Must visit places include Bramber, Shoreham, Lancing and the South Downs. Alternatively, make Steyning part of a larger itinerary:
Places to stay
There are places to stay include The Tollgate Hotel and The Castle in Bramber, as well as accommodation at Wiston. There are also various Airbnbs and of course, the gorgeous shepherd’s hut at The Artisan Bakehouse nearby.
Living
Steyning manages to combine a quintessentially Sussex feel with a bohemian and creative edge. It does not have its own railway station but it is not far from the A24 and A27 as well as being within reasonable distance of both the coast and London. For more information about living in Steyning and local shops, visit:
Getting there and transport
Just six miles from Shoreham and eight miles from Worthing, Steyning is easily reached from the A283 and is not far from the A24.
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