Beer Day Britain is upon us (15 June).
Fast approaching, it’s a favourite day across Britain for the brewing industry, especially throughout our beloved Sussex. The day itself echoes of the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215, in which clause 35 of the charter featured one of the earliest references to the importance of ale across the kingdom.
Hopped beer arrives in Sussex
Now, more than 800 years later, the love affair between Britain and its beer has become something closer to a marriage, and no county upholds that commitment quite like Sussex. As a county, we lay claim to one of the most formative developments in English brewing history, which came in the form of a delivery made to our very own Winchelsea on our East Sussex coast. About 600 years ago, in the 1400s, Sussex received some of the first well-documented hopped beers, delivered from the Low Countries by Dutch merchants.
To the people of Sussex, at first, it was nothing but a foreign novelty, but with the merchants came knowledge of hop cultivation. Parts of Sussex soon became prime land and a location for hop growing due to its fertile ground near the coastline, its abundance of fresh water and masses of surrounding market towns and delivery routes. Sussex’s continent-facing coastline only further aided land that was ready and waiting for its role in hop cultivation.
Our little Sussex beer trail: first stop – tradition
With East Sussex as the custodian of Sussex brewing, over hundreds of years it has become home to some of the most well-known breweries in England and at the top of that list sits Harvey’s Brewery in Lewes. Established in 1790, Harvey’s Brewery is the oldest independent brewery in Sussex and makes for the perfect place for us to hop off as our first stop on our little Sussex beer tail. With five family members from the seventh and eighth generation of the late John Harvey still working at the brewery today, its heritage and family values are inspirational. It sits on the banks of the River Ouse in Lewes and is cocooned by the rolling South Downs and the historic town that surrounds it.
When it comes to a beer in Sussex, Harvey’s Best Bitter undoubtedly takes the cake every time. It’s a quintessential Sussex pub classic, and as someone who has previously worked in the industry, when someone asks for a pint of Harvey’s bitter, you will often hear “may I have a pint of Sussex”, which is exactly what Harvey’s Brewery provides every time. A pint of Sussex history and community embodied with a rich malt backbone and earthy hop character with a lingering bitterness that is firm but subtle with undertones of what some describe as hedgerow fruits and orange marmalade. It’s a must-try for anyone who wants to celebrate Beer Day Britain with something steeped in Sussex heritage and that has been a favourite in pubs for generations.
Next stop – contemporary
Harvey’s may be the undisputed celebrity brewer of our coastline, but how could I in good conscience end our beer bus journey here when, if we travel just a little further west and wave farewell to the banks of the River Ouse, we find ourselves in an entirely different sector of Sussex brewing that deserves equal exploration? So as our bus pulls to a stop, I welcome you to the heart of our county, Mid-Sussex. By nature, Mid-Sussex takes a more contemporary approach to its brewing and has created a refreshingly new and exciting social space within the industry, which is exemplified at The Hop Sun in Haywards Heath.
As a more recently established brewery and taproom, it’s embraced the concept of using modern brewing to bring people together and appreciate what a good pint can be. During the nineteenth century, the railway system was a pivotal turning point in this town’s entrepreneurship and conviviality. Unlike some of our more historic brewers closer to the coast, The Hop Sun isn’t bound by the constraints of convention and instead has built an involved community where creation and craftmanship help shape their beers.
Focusing on Hop- forward ales that satiate your taste buds but work with the seasons, June brings citrus notes and tropical flavours that are light and refreshing and dance on your tongue, but when winter comes, further craft does too, and The Hop Sun showcases even more variety with their darker ales that have more comforting notes. Powered by Heathen Brewery, it serves not only handcrafted beers but fun, easy-eating food as well. Every beer is brewed on site, only steps away from where you can sit and enjoy a pint that is as fresh and diverse in flavour as Mid-Sussex is in character. Harvey’s Brewery and The Hop Sun paint a picture of the evolution of beer in this country just as King John intended in his clause. One represents heritage and the other innovation. But I would hate to leave you with a half-finished pint or picture, and there’s a final corner of Sussex we must venture into, so hop back on my bus and let’s make our final stop.
Final stop
As the bustle of Mid-Sussex fades into the sunset and the road carries us through patchwork fields and ancient woodland, West Sussex forms around us. And as our bus rolls to a halt, hop off with me at Hepworth Brewery to explore our final side of the county and a brewery that ties our story together perfectly.
With Harvey’s long-standing traditional values and The Hop Sun’s focus on innovation, Hepworth sits perfectly between the two. Their story starts at King & Barnes brewery, founded in the 1800s. However, come the year 2000, they closed their doors. But fear not, their head brewer, Andy Hepworth, had other plans. Andy put his years of brewing knowledge and skill to work, and within two years of King and Barnes’ closure, Hepworth Brewery, which now sits just outside Pulborough, West Sussex, began a story of their own.
Alongside believing in tradition and respecting long-standing processes, they also work incredibly hard to craft beers that are not only organic and vegan but also made with all local ingredients. Their meticulous cultivation method naturally produces beer that reflects their commitment to quality. Using a fine filtration process to naturally remove any residue, they bypass the need for any additives. Alongside all of this, they relentlessly fly the eco-friendly flag throughout the brewery. Whilst saving water, reducing and recycling waste and using onsite solar panels, they still find time to make a range of beers and ales, including some that are alcohol free. With one of their longest-established beers, The Sussex Pale Ale being their best seller, this beer carries everything they stand for and more and is made with the same care they repeatedly show our planet. Its golden amber colour and approachable flavour complement its balanced bitterness and citrus notes. Hepworth brewery is nothing less than a treasure tucked away in the rural countryside they call home.
And so, I’ll park our bus here and leave it up to you. Will you return to our coastline for history with Harvey’s or maybe head inward for some fun and frontier beer craft at The Hop Sun, or is that you’ll stay here at Hepworth and sit amongst the fields where the beer in your hand began its journey? With the 15th of June approaching, your pint of choice is important, but never negate the value of the brewery that provides it.
This article was contributed by Greta Pitts.
If you want to explore more Sussex beer, or create your own Sussex beer trail, you may also like:
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